Archive for December, 2009
Flare, Elle Canada, Vogue, LG Fashion Week, Toronto Alternative Fashion Week, Fashion Magazine, Marie Claire, Glamour, canadian fashion designers, boutiques
In Canadian, Fashion, Recap, Shopping, designer on December 31, 2009 at 7:19 pm
Come ahhnnn! We all know NY’s resolutions are the corniest thing known to man. But you know, we do need them once in a while. I’ve been so hooked on euro-style I completely dismissed what’s right in front of me. So if you’re a fashion maven like me — and I do think I’m a pretty cool one — then make an ode to showin’ some love to the fashion merchants and innovators in your area that need you the most.
For 2010, I promise to:
5) Party on down to those Fashion gatherings that happen around the city. Yeah, I’d much rather curl up in front my european mags, and browse the Internet for designers across the pond (or the border). Sometimes hitting up the locals can be a bit lame because you see the same faces. But it’s worth a shot, you never know who’s going to show up.
4) Attend LG Fashion Week and FAT. Yeah, I’m going to mingle with the other fashion industry leaders and rouse in the talents of homegrown fashion talent. I may have to dig through a lot of junk, but I’m sure I’ll find a gem somewhere in there.
3) Shop at Canadian designer boutiques. I’ll be the first to admit, sometimes Toronto fashion can be a bit “gag inducing,” there I said it. But upon taking chances of just walking into to some stores, and gazing at the visual display long enough to be creative, I did notice some genuinely cool stuff.
2) Share my love for fashion with Canadian press. Yeah, some of you may have figured, I am writer – a journalist to be specific. So, While I’ve lived across the pond and tried my hardest to break into fashion mags elsewhere, I’ve decided to build a portfolio right here. Elle Canada, Fashion Magazine, Flare, they’re all here, and they’re just as good a platform to build my portfolio as is Marie Claire, or Glamour, or Vogue — well, maybe not Vogue.
1) Utilize my Canadian resources. Why do people always think they need to leave to attain success? Why can’t we just venture out for a short while then come back home once we’ve got our fill? I felt the same way for far too long. As cliché as it sounds, no, the grass was not particularly greener. We’ve got billions of resources here, a federal government, provinces, everything. If I absolutely must leave, then I’d at least like to know I’ve utilized all possible resources here and reached a certain level of success. Then going somewhere else will just be an extension, not a main mission.
Floral Print, mini-dresses, Oswald Helgason, shorts, spring/summer 2010, Trompe l'oeil
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, designer on December 31, 2009 at 6:30 pm
Susanne Ostwald and Ingvar Helgason of Ostwald Helgason are strong with their trompe l’oeil concept for their s/s 2010 collection of super short-shorts and mini-dresses. Since their début at Paris Fashion Week in 2008, they’ve created a very niche but devoted following and remained consistent with each release.
I’d say Oswald Helgason is perfect for those who want androgynous feminine. You know, to wear a dress without all the queasy floral print, and cuts that cascade around the silhouette. I for one am not interested in the look of month, but if I must, I’d prefer my feminine look to have a timeless feel. Luckily, OH has a consistent element, so you don’t have to worry about being dated.
They don’t have a large distro-list, but with every accolade and every request, lets hope that changes.
confidence, Fashion
In Good Look, Op Ed., Recap, Trend, Vogue on December 30, 2009 at 9:29 pm
Before
When I lived in the UK for the earlier part of 2009, I wandered London’s congested streets wearing colourful sneakers, stonewash jeans and multiple gold cuban link chains. Upon my return to Toronto, I adapted a punk-influenced look consisting of Trilby hats and leather biker jackets - possibly due to my new-found worldliness. But skirts and heels slowly creeped back into my primary list, mainly because I returned to my conform zone. Before I’d left Toronto, I could throughout the city for miles on end wearing the sexiest heels.
When I landed a job, I was the fashion-forward girl in an office of three; influencing my colleagues to jazz it up a bit more frequently. From beginning to end, I maintained a solid reputation as the young woman who basked in looking good and would surely cultivate a flourishing fashion career. When my contract ended, I still had desire. But then, I got a job as a part-time Sales Associate for a British retail luxury chain.
At first I thought I’d enjoy this experience. I thought this move would help me to dig deeper into my cravings for fashion. But the uniform, my colleagues, and my managers slowly outed my flame. My need to care was replaced with my need for an out. I started to feel stifled by my surroundings; I preferred the solitude of a computer and words rather than having to “try” for another day on the sales floor. Every day was a was like of war, and the more I wished I could camouflage into the four walls. The nonchalant attitude dipped in my ability to smile, to care. Consequently, your appearance can affect your performance, which can lead to loss of a job. They say fake it till you make it, and it’s true. I remember a time when I had broken up with an old boyfriend. I started to dress a bit more for work; not only did my confidence boost, I got over him quite quickly.
The last time I struggled with a job under the similar circumstances with the store was while living in England. It was for a British company, and I had to wear a uniform. However, I don’t think it was the uniform anymore than it was the people I reported to. A toxic attitude can contain a multitude of things; whether it’s your surroundings, confidence and level happiness at that time.
During
My clairvoyance taped into my conscience; I dreamt about the end of my part-time retail job, something that tends to happen when I know the door will close, and weeks before, my ambitions started to shift to the things I wanted to do. There was no point in trying to salvage it, I knew it was over, it was just a matter of when. But I consider that loss to be a blessing. Because terminating a burdensome working relationship is ending a bad romance. The minute it was over, I regained my confidence. I started to feel my heart mould into a smile, and the part of me that drifted away started to come back.
NOW!
For months, I only had this blog as an outlet; it turned that fashion maven loose. Her and I split into two parts; she illuminated, gorgeous and captivating on the blog, while I hid behind her, quiet and patient. But now the year is over, we’ll become one in the same again. The new years is positive; I’ve laid out the groundwork, and I’ve got to enter it with a BANG!
Alexander McQueen, Copenhagen Fashion Week, Jonathan Saunders, London Fashion Week, Max Factor, Sofia Kokosalaki
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, One to Watch, designer on December 18, 2009 at 1:08 am
Louise Amstrup’s a lucky gal. Since debuting her collection at London Fashion Week in 2006, fashion press has been on her jock as a bee is to honey. She’s sucked them in with her ornate collections, and things are about to get better, thanks to a nomination for the Max Factor and Copenhagen Fashion Week New Talent Award.
The Danish fashion designer sharpened her couturier skills under Alexander McQueen, Jonathan Saunders and Sofia Kokosalaki producing a collection inspired by sharp edges, solid grey/black colour palettes and geometric shapes. Her spring/summer 2010 collection incorporated mesh, draping and sci-fi shoulder blades, a trend we’ll be seeing a lot of in the upcoming year.
Flora Print, Graduate Fashion Week, Hoi Lam Wong, London College of Fashion
In Fashion, Good Look, One to Watch, designer on December 17, 2009 at 11:50 pm
If you’re going to do floral prints, do it right or forget it. But not only has floral prints taken over the fashion world, the saturation of it has made my stomach churn with nausea.
There was once a time when I wanted nothing more than to be encompassed in an endless field of sun-kissed flowers. Now, the mere thought of it makes me roll my eyes with exasperation. And to think, I once truly loved floral prints; I would have owned a closet full had it not been for its mass-production for a quick buck. But I digress. Alas, my love for floral prints has been salvaged.
London of College of Fashion graduate Hoi Lam Wong has saved it. The award-winning designer’s final collection – as part of Graduate Fashion Week – was based on creating a “modern womenswear collection that drew heavily from male tailoring.” Which could be why I’m in love with floral prints again.
Wong’s collection is – at it’s absolute worse – blatantly sexy. But not in the way you’d expect. What makes it sexy is that it’s conservative. There’s no need to show a lot of skin (though we all know I do love lots of that). But the fact that she can formulate a full collection while having so many elements in mind is something worth paying attention to. There’s sequins and floral amalgamated with timeless pieces, and the overall collection has a distinct androgynous look. All boundaries pushed, men or women could literally wear the collection. Now, how brave men would be to wear it I’m not sure, but there is something in there for everyone – that’s why Hoi Lam Wong’s a winner.
American Apparel, Belstaff, Burberry, gareth pugh, H&M, Lyle & Scott, Maison Martin Margiela, Meadham Kirchhoff, Pharrell Williams, Pretty Green Label, Rad Hourani, Shop Nasty Gal
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, I heart, Shopping, Trend on December 17, 2009 at 9:27 pm
(Pharrell Williams on the Town)
If I were a boy…
I’d dress like a man. But even if I’m not, I much prefer the art of men’s clothing. Whether it’s biker boots, sneakers, plaid shirts or rugged leather jackets, men’s fashion seems to center around the luxury of making a hard-wearing concept look über cool. Whereas if done by a woman, it would either be too “dyke” looking or just plain “durty.”
But I’ve been this way since I was a young’un. As a pre-teen, my statement was meshing my father’s wardrobe with my own. Particularly during the `90s when pants were baggy enough to fit at least three people in them. I loved that time – I really did. As I’ve grown older, I haven’t yet figured out if I have a signature style. But if I do, it’s probably my love for monochromatic colour palettes with a masculine reference. Maybe that’s why Gareth Pugh, Meadham Kirchhoff and Rad Hourani are amongst my favorite designers.
During my frequent musings at H&M and Urban Outfitters, rather than rummaging through the women’s isles, I now dive right over to the men’s section. It’s my own little amusement park, and oh the joys in trying on cardigans alongside the fellas! I don’t particularly like the attention, but maybe the benefits of being a woman is that I get the best of both worlds. Even when I’m dressed super feminine, I always have to garnish the finished look with a tinge of masculinity. When I shop for sneakers, I don’t buy ones made women, oh gosh no! I want the ones made for guys, which in my opinion, is so much more attractive anyway.
I did, and still do, have a knack for femininity. But I can’t stand (or at least no longer can) ultra-girly high-street stores like Costa Blanca and Miss Selfridge. Perhaps because I don’t like the manufactured girly look. You know, the cookie-cutter separates you won’t be the only one sporting when you see every third girl wearing it. It’s actually quite appalling.
Burberry Rabbit Fur Snood (for the neck)
Pretty Green - Black Label Coat
Lyle & Scott Cardigan
Bleach & Destroy Jeans
Maison Martin Margiela High-top leather trainers with Straps
Belstaff leather messenger bag
Alexander McQueen, British Vogue, Browns Focus, Central St. Martins, Christian Dior Couture, Erdem, Galliano, Giles, Hermione de Paula, London Fashion Week, Vauxhall Fashion Scout
In Fashion, In the Know, London, News, RTW, designer on December 15, 2009 at 6:13 pm
I have a genuine love for new designers. But as I’m scrutinizing an image of Hermione de Paula, I can’t tell whether her blank stare is because she knows she’s privileged enough to get a break or because she’s jaded by all the bull-crap she’s gone through.
A cute girl with a cute fashion line and a cute little dog to match. This Central St. Martins graduate has got experience to boot; she’s been at Galliano, Giles, Alexander McQueen and Christian Dior Couture. She’s a favorite amongst the “fash” pack at British Vogue online and she’s the recipient of the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Merit Award for autumn/winter 2010/2011. She’s got her first standalone catwalk show this upcoming London Fashion Week and she’s got a spring/summer 2010 collection at Browns Focus.
All the excitement galore means she’s got the stamina, she’s a hardworking mama-jammer, but I’m not quite fond of her s/s 2010 collection. Let’s not hate; her previous collections are great, but this collection seems to be boggled down by flora print, tie-dyes or something. Don’t get me wrong, she’s got some seriously hot pieces in there, and when she keeps her concepts to a minimum it’s bang on. But maybe I’m just not fond of floral prints. But then again, I beg to differ because I’m a fan of Erdem.
Bentheim, Bryce Aime, Central St. Martin, Chelsea, Drapers, Fashion Business Club, London Fashion Week, Walton Street
In Collection, Fashion, Fashion Heat, France, Good Look, London, News, designer on December 15, 2009 at 5:27 pm
If you join the UK’s exclusive Fashion Business Club, you’re destined to go very far places. Or , on second thought, maybe it’s if you graduate from Central St. Martins. That’s probably because you’ll have the prestige and support to “rule the world” as they say.
In 1998, Bryce Aime was a young unknown who moved to London from France, now he’s a well-respected fashion designer with his own boutique located in London’s it spot – Chelsea’s Walton Street.
Aime who has a passion for architecture, philosophy and art, amalgamated all these elements into a fashion line that launched at London Fashion Week in 2006. The collection, which draws inspiration from sci-fi aesthetics, is an influx of geometric shapes and monochrome color palettes – ideal for making an entrance into the fashion world.
The self-titled boutique was designed with help of Daryll Amos of award-winning interior design boutique Bentheim with a clean minimalist concept and a cosy, intimate feel. Bryce told Drapers there are plans for expansion in the upcoming year. Well, if you’ve got the resources you should definitely capitalize.
All Saints, Balmain, Chrome Hearts, Colette, Fendi, Hysteric Glamour, Longchamp x Andam, Maison Martin Margiela, Net-A-Porter, Rachel Gilbert, Révillon, RVCA x Erin Wasson, Thomas Pink, Tim Scott
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, Rouse, Shopping, Trend on December 10, 2009 at 1:36 am
Hobo student wanderer by day:
Chrome Hearts nylon sleeveless vest, 2430 (Euros).
Hysteric Glamour “Nirvana” wool cardigan, 500 (Euros).
RVCA x Erin Wasson “If you Ain’t Cowboy, you ain’t shit” t-shirt, 70 (Euros).
Balmain short cotton pants, 890 (Euros).
Thomas Pink charcoal long wool socks, 15 (GBP).
AllSaints tread boot, 160 (GBP).
Longchamp x Andam “Pilage” bag (Jeremy Scott edition), 190 (Euros).
Tom Scott wool gloves scarf, 455 (Euros).
Cinderella by Night:
Révillon fox fur coat, 8100 (Euros).
Rachel Gilbert Lyla floor-length sequined silk gown, 950 (USD).
Maison Martin Margiela glass court pump, 1530 (euros).
Fendi beaded clutch.
All images by Colette and Net-A-Porter.
Ann Demeulemeester, Bernhard Willhelm, Billionaire Boy's Club, Browns Fashion, Colette, De Stijl, Far Fetch, Jeremy Scott, John Galliano, kris van assche, Luisaviaroma, Paul Smith, Pierre Hardy, Pieter Cornelis Mondrain, Raf Simmons, Rick Owens, Ssense, Style Drops, Swarovski
In Fashion, Good Look, Recap, Shoes, Shopping, art, sneakers on December 10, 2009 at 12:02 am
As I’ve grown older, my eye for good quality sneakers aka trainers, has become more refined. I admit, I’ve always had good taste in sneakers, but now I can easily spot a really good one when I see it. And believe me – it takes skill, particularly when concepts are slapped together – in the laziest or excessive ways- and then suddenly considered the must-have item of the season.
I don’t like my sneakers to be pretentious, well – maybe just a little. But pretentious meaning they’re equal parts fashion and art. Yes, I truly do believe in wearing art on your feet.
The Top Ten Hottest kicks for 2009/2010 (so far):
Bernhard Willhelm - 204 (Euros). Available at Far Fetch.
I do quite like these all-black leather high-tops. What’s particularly interesting is the piece of lace intertwined with the shoe laces that are strapped through the shoe.
Ann Demeulemeester – 541.44 (CAD). Available at Luisaviaroma.
Sneakers don’t get more euro than this. Beautifully punk black suede sneakers with triple buckle embellishments. If you’re a sneaker lover who’s got class – you wear these.
John Galliano – 475 (USD). Available at Style Drops.
With the patent leather and rivets, I can see these being very popular amongst the hip-hop community. Look at the buckle details, it’s riveting.
Rick Owens – 695 (GBP). Available at Browns Fashion.
Almost a boxing style shoe, what’s wonderful about this shoe is not just the black/white colourway, but the zipper along the side and elongated tongue.
Billionaire Boys Club – 276 (CAD). Available at Ssense.
High-top black canvas sneakers with white city print. How cool is that? I’ve never been one for the whole BBC/Ice Cream shenanigans, but I love the simplicity of this shoe. you may be looking at the shoe thinking “What’s so simple about it?” well, the minimalism with architectural element. This shoe is very art deco.
Paul Smith – 315 (USD). Available at Style Drops.
Leather multicoloured shoe with a heavy psychedelic reference. Enough said.
Raf Simmons - 301 (Euros). Available at Colette.
Neoprene sneakers – the cool irony. Too cool to wear scuba diving, though they don’t look like shoes you’d wear everyday.
Pierre Hardy – 350 (Euros). Available at Colette.
Drawing slight reference from the De Stijl movement, these remind me of works by the infamous Pieter Cornelis Mondrain. There were only 500 pairs available worldwide.
kris van assche - 491 (CAD). Available at Ssense.
These starch white Nappa lambskin sneakers remind me of an astronaut heading off to the moon. These babies sold out quickly, and we’re not sure if we’ll ever see them again.
Swarovski crystalized x Jeremy Scott sneakers – 2500 (Euros). Available at Colette.
Would someone really be that crazy to wear 5000+ dollar crystalized sneakers with wings? You betcha. Jeremy Scott made winged sneakers the rave for 2009 and this is a perfect way to end off the year. A true gem, Swarovski showed the world that they can be just as street as the rest of them. Kudos to Jeremy for constructing such a daring fashion statement.
Barbie, comme des garcons, Dover Street Market, Floral Print, Jingle Flowers
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, News, Trend, dress on December 9, 2009 at 8:23 pm
Comme des Garçons has teamed with Barbie for a very limited-edition release called “Jingle Flowers.” The ultimate Christmas gift and part of GDC’s platinum collection, some lucky young girls will own Barbie at her best; modeled in a silk-lined, asymmetrical organza dress adorned in multicoloured roses and wearing elegant black slingbacks. The doll retails for 225 GBP and will be available at all Comme des Garçons stores (including CDG’s Dover Street Market).
As we all know, floral print has been astronomical on the runway and a hit with fashionistas across the globe. Unfortunately, GDC hasn’t formed the concept into a real woman collection, however, according to NY Post, the print will be available on wallets, T-shirts, perfume bottles and Artek Chairs.
Alexander Wang, body-con dress, Cheryl Cole, Emilio De La Moren, Helmut Lang, Hervé Léger, hussein chalayan, Maxmara, Preen
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, Trend, Trend Report, designer, dress on December 8, 2009 at 8:53 pm
The Body-con dress is the best thing invented since God invented us – “us” meaning women. I once wrote a personal blog post regarding “skinny bitches in Hervé Léger,” but admittedly, I’m closer to slim than I am to blimp. But my ode to the body-con dress is because of my love for short and skin-tight. I adore having my body being hugged by velvety supple fabric; I want a dress that will literally mould to my shape accentuating my curves, flaunting what I have while I have it. But beware, there’s a thin line between sultry and skank.
Maxmara for Hervé Léger was a genius idea. In early `08, once Cheryl Cole flaunted a tri-colour haltered Hervé Léger the best way she knew how, the body-con dress became a fashion frenzy, and a train of celebrities followed suit. One-by-one those girls pumped out Hervé in different colours and cuts, but the medal goes to the women with the hour-glass figures. They were the true definition of a Hervé Léger muse, and that’s the way it should be. To our benefit, other designers including Alexander Wang, Preen and Emilio De La Morena all have their own striking interpretations of body-con. I could easily fill a page of the best body-con dresses on the market.
The body-con dress must be tight and short, with holes and slits in all the right places (think shoulders and waistlines). Make sure you carry the dress with a punk mentality. It’s not for the faint-hearted and ultra girly, the body-con dress is for women who like edge. Those who aren’t afraid to command the room they walk into. The body-con dress screams sexy and dangerous, but not loose. To optimize the look, opt for stiletto ankle booties with a vintage leather biker jacket.
Alexander McQueen, Lace, textured dress, Julien Macdonald, Surface to Air, Sophia Kokosalaki, Weekend by Maxmara, Etro, sequins, ruche, drape, sixties
In Fabric, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, Trend, Trend Report, designer, dress on December 8, 2009 at 7:48 pm
Every woman should have a textured dress in her closet – at least at some point. The fabrics of a textured dress are intricately woven into a finished look that’s fragile to the eye, but rich in substance. Rather than going for a modern trend, when you opt for texture, you’re carrying on a fashion tradition that boomed during the sixties; when a designer’s collection emphasized three-dimensional prints and geometric shapes that are classic fashion emblems today. Wearing a textured dress delves deep into your personality, because you’ll choose it based on its characteristics more than anything else. Imagine attending an evening event in a classic red Jacquard knit dress with hounds tooth print by Alexander McQueen, or wearing a dove-coloured slate draped jersey dress by Sophia Kokosalaki to the opera. You’ll stimulate the senses and draw attention to your aura, highly regarded as a woman of style. Without question, a textured dress really is the ultimate chic.
The best textured dresses are usually made of knit or silk, as the results produced are complex yet artistic. Although it’s true that sequins can add texture, it’s too easy of a feat. Lace is a great fabric for texture, as are dresses made with graphic print details and ones that are heavily ruched and draped.
A textured dress is most effective when short to mid-length; as a long textured dress is more suited towards the long and narrow shaped. To dress tone down the textured dress, wear darker solid coloured leggings with a lightweight jacket.
Fashion Designer, Jimmy Choo, Malaysia, Pegg, Peggie Lim, Project Runway Malaysia, Style Malaysia Magazine
In Collection, Fashion, In the Know, News, designer, dress on December 7, 2009 at 4:38 pm
At the tender age of 22, awarding-winning Fashion designer Peggie Lim seems destined to be the next “big thing” out of Malaysian territory since fashion mogul Jimmy Choo! But while her line, Pegg, noted as “awe-inspiring” and “iconic” by local press there is all the rave, that could just be because of patriotism rather than actual talent. Not surprising. And this is not to say that Malaysia isn’t blessed with its own fledging fashion scene. Blogs, magazines (Style Malaysia Magazine), TV shows (Project Runway), and it’s own international fashion week bares significance amongst industry insiders on all levels. So when a designer such as Peggie Lim comes around, it’s surprising that she wouldn’t be subject to a bit more criticism.
However, after a closer look at the collection, while a lot of it is heavily dated, she does have a few (very few) pieces that display her potential. One of them being a white asymmetrical shift dress with smudges of paint along the shoulder.
The colouring juxtaposed with the ruffled sleeve shows her interest in texture. And if she had followed through; possibly by adding knots from the shoulder blending into the silhouette as well as tapering the hemline, consequently, the dress would have been more effective.
Overall, Pegg has the look of a mid-level high street brand than a full-out fashion collection. But considering this is Peggie’s first ever release, as always, with a bit more creativity and individuality, she may be on to something bigger.
Bernard Krief Consulting, chanel, Christian Lacroix, comme des garcons, eBay, Edmond Safra, Marielle Safra, Michael Kors, Sheikh Hassan Ben Ali al-Naimi, The Falic Group, United Arab Emirate state Ajman, Vogue
In Collection, Fashion, News, Op Ed., Paris, art, colour, culture, designer, dress on December 5, 2009 at 2:19 am
Christian Lacroix struggled to make the dresses for Safra’s wedding, but oh no, not me. He meant Marielle Safra, bloodline of the late banking Tycoon, Edmond Safra.
I love Christian Lacroix. But of course, I’ve never been privileged enough to own his clothes. Not even via eBay. But this French couturier’s collection is resplendent and jubilant. I thoroughly enjoyed reading those fairytale write-ups in Vogue, and gazed, wantonly, at fashion spreads filled with colour, bows and embellishments. For someone like me, his line represented what fashion was – a cloud of dreams. And I suppose Mr. Lacroix felt the same way. But when reality strikes, and those clouds hit pavement, it’s worse than being diagnosed with a terminal illness. Which must be what Mr. Lacroix is feeling right now.
We all knew, as did he, Christian Lacroix’s house faced stifling financial woes, but welcome to fashion’s reality. However, not all fashion houses face this brutal fatality; some are able to turn profits well beyond belief. Look at Chanel, Michael Kors and Comme des Garcons as legendary modern examples. But he was never one of the lucky ones. So when those potential financial backers fell through, and the house will be what was, it comes as a some sudden shock to the masses.
Sheikh Hassan Ben Ali al-Naimi, nephew to the ruler of United Arab Emirate state Ajman, supposedly expressed interest. Then Bernard Krief Consulting, a French investment group, also stepped in setting high hopes of victory. But the Sheikh and the firm pulled out last-minute because they couldn’t get funding in time. In my opinion – that’s hogshit. Truth is, when given the real low down, neither of them was the slightest bit convinced about the House of Lacroix’s ability to turn a long run, if ever, financial profit. But now, its employees – Mr. Lacroix included – are at the will of bull-talking cash cows for the sake of its own salvation.
Over the years he’s tried everything. During his peak in the`90s, he created countless diffusion lines, fragrances and accessories. But there is something about his line that obviously just isn’t resonating, and now all that will be left is a licensing right.
Could it have been that he was too French? Too artistic? Too couture? The only thing I can think of was that the line started to become exactly what it always was, caught up in itself.
You know, as gorgeous as his collections are, a lot of his references date back to a time when over-the-top was well and good then, but doesn’t hold much place in our lives now. Sure, fashion recycles, but Mr. Lacroix was trying to live a buried dream. The time when the supermodel and shoulder pad both reigned, together. And during those times, LVMH relished in the brand’s potential, but when they foresaw the impending stagnancy, which was inevitable, they passed the house off for cheap to The Falic Group.
Mr. Lacroix wants to blame his current owners for his fall from grace, but you see Monsieur Lacroix, the Falic brothers are not responsible for your shortcomings. They, like you, are dreamers, but they wanted the prestige of having a high-fashion brand in their portfolio while making money, an abundance of it. You on the other hand, are an artist; more concerned with creating beautiful clothes for a certain tier of beautiful people (like Marielle Safra). You did, yes you did, dismiss the fact that you are a business. Art and commerce can work, but it’s artists’ who have an instinctive business acumen that survive. But if only Mr. Lacroix, if only…
It is true. Christian Lacroix’s fashion house was closed off from the rest of us, only accessible to people who frolic in almost unlimited wealth and luxury. Yet it was us, the commoners, who probably could have helped him, at least just a little while longer. But I don’t think Mr. Lacroix does H&M.
For what it’s worth Mr. Lacroix, you will certainly be missed by the rest of us.
comme des garcons, Desirée Rogers, Obama Family, Michelle Obama, Robin Givhan, White House, NY Times, Ms. O, Fall 2009, Washington Post, Michaele Salahi, Tareq Salahi, Barack Obama, Manmohan Singh, Wall Street Journal, Oscar De La Renta, Maureen Dowd, Hilary Clinton, Vogue
In Fashion Heat, Good Look, Recap, culture, designer on December 4, 2009 at 2:10 am
I haven’t paid a lot of attention to the White House’s holdings; I’ve been a naughty girl – or at least so I thought, until I did closer inspection on the Desirée Rogers “scandal.”
Politics is an extensive, overwhelming topic. But when it’s somehow incorporated into fashion, as it was in this case, it drew my interest, so I thought I’d touch base.
Up until today, I didn’t even know who Desirée Rogers or Robin Givhan were. And I’m not ashamed of it because ultimately, when it comes to Obama affairs, they’re not (or at least not supposed to be) the center of attention, here. But both are getting partial flack over the first Obama state dinner in honor of Indian Prime Minister Manmohan Singh that took place on November 24. With Ms. Givhan as the supposed instigator, and Ms. Rogers as the faux pas at-large.
Ms. Rogers, the longtime compadre to the Obama clan, was hired as their Social Secretary at the White House. I admit, I consider that a fancy term for PR girl. With that being said, maybe it shouldn’t come as a surprise that she’s reveling in the laws of glamour, immaculately adorned in the latest fashions, and accepting feature requests from the world’s top fashion publications. Including the infamously lavish Wall Street Journal piece where she made her staple on building the “Obama brand” while deliberating over whether to wear an Oscar De La Renta gown for the photo spread. She’s merely doing her job right? Well, maybe. But I do believe when your job gets in the way of scruples, something’s got to give.
“[The dress] featured layers of sheer pink and creme fabric and loops of pearls, is from [Comme des Garcons’s] Fall 2009 collection.” Wrote Mrs.O.
Indeed, Ms. Rogers was stunning in that sheer nude Comme des Garcons dress she wore to the dinner. And I say that as someone half her age – sincerely. For a single mother at age 50, who obviously still has a vivacious zest for life, she glided in the risqué ensemble that bared transparent sleeves, looped in strands of pearls and white tulle outlining her silhouette. However, as much as I personally love all things avant-garde, especially fashion, if I were initiated into the White House camp, even I would willfully suppress my splendiferous tendencies – this isn’t funny business, you know. Especially when it will inevitably lead to scrutiny amongst some of the most respected media (fashion or otherwise) in the arena.
Ms. Givhan, the Washington Post alum (Fashion Editor to be specific) wrote a hard-hitting article regarding that night. The smooth running and guest list for the dinner was left in Ms. Rogers’s care. So how, were Michaele and Tareq Salahi, two relatively “unknowns,” able to get past security service without being invited is beyond the nation, even me. The fact is that according to Ms. Givhan, Ms. Rogers, so wrapped-up in glamour-puss mode, didn’t properly delegate people in her office to closely monitor patrons at the front gates. “Social secretaries had always quashed their own public profiles, demurred from seeking the limelight, in service to their position and in deference to the first lady; [but] there was a new social sheriff in town and, for better or worse, she was one like no other.” Wrote Ms. Givhan in her article. On top of that, Ms. Rogers sat at the dinner table as a bona fide guest rather than waiting on the sidelines as a staff member organizing an event should do.
“They (her friends) warned her of the ways of Washington, its desire for discretion, and urged to keep her profile low. In the nation’s capital, no one need know whether the social secretary wore Nina Ricci or Halston, just that she was appropriately clothed.” And now Ms. Givhan is looked at like some snooty nosed perpetuator. Especially because as soon as she saw Ms. Rogers on the press line she confirmed by asking “Are you wearing Comme des Garcon?” in which Ms. Rogers replied “Of course.” Ms. Givhan obviously knows her stuff, but I guess to others she’s trying to tarnish Ms. Rogers’s reign because she may be just a bit more glamorous than herself. “You don’t wear something like that if you don’t want or mind a little attention. That single dress, I thought, said a lot about who Rogers is and how she sees herself.” Ms. Givhan rebutted on her blog.
At this point, with the myriad of coverage garnered, the twists and turns of plotlines and everything in between, I’m not sure who or what is to blame here. And the concept of party crashing is certainly not new. Maureen Dowd from NY Times reported that even President Obama “crashed Hillary’s high-hat party in 2008 and he crashed the snooty age-old Washington party of privileged white guys with a monopoly on power.” And I’m quite sure Ms. Rogers had hoped her high-profile parties (back when she was a Chi-town girl), would be crashed by high society people she forgot to invite too.
But I suppose that this story is much deeper than Ms. Rogers’s rapturous dress and the power-hungry couple that broke the gate of entry. The problem at hand is Mr. Obama and family’s protection and image conflicting with Ms. Rogers’s star-studded ego.
Art Forum, Book signing, Gagosian, Hans Ulrich Obrist, Jeff Koons, Jeff Koons: Hulk Elvis, Liberty Bell, New York, Pop Art, Scott Rothkopf
In Books, Engage, News, art, culture on December 3, 2009 at 6:22 pm
If you’ve ever wanted to see a living art icon in the flesh, now’s your chance. Not only will you get to own a piece of memorabilia, but you may also – by chance – get your book signed by one of the most popular “Pop” artists of modern times, Jeff Koons.
Written by Art Forum‘s Scott Rothkopf, featuring conversations with curator Hans Ulrich Obrist and paintings of Jeff Koons, this five-pound book centers around a kaleidoscope of whimsical characters including inflatable monkeys, geishas, birds and the revolutionary Liberty Bell. It’s kind of like a cartoon for grown-ups, considering that I’ve always perceived Mr. Koons to be a “big kid” himself.
Jeff Koons: Hulk Elvis is currently available for purchase here.
Who: Jeff Koons
What: Book signing of Jeff Koons: Hulk Elvis
When: Thursday, December 17th from 6 to 9PM
Where: Gagosian Shop
988 Madison Avenue
New York, NY 10075
For more information, visit: Gagosian.com.
Anna Wintour, British Vogue, Burberry, Camberwell College of Art, Carine Roitfeld, Chau Har Lee, Dazed Digital, i-D magazine, International Talent Scout, London College of Fashion, Maison Martin Margiela, Manolo Blahnik, Nicole Farhi, Nylon, Royal College of Art, US Vogue, Vogue Paris
In Collection, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, Heels, London, One to Watch, Shoes, art, designer on December 2, 2009 at 6:44 pm
“I aim to create pieces that have strength and beauty, based around a concept which can be about a number of things – the body, the materials or a particular theme.”
– Chau Har Lee to Dazed Digital
I like clothes more than shoes. But when I come across footwear that’s fantastically spellbinding, I’m quick to want.
When it comes to what you wear, there shouldn’t be any borders; clothes, shoes or otherwise. Screw the conservative society! Many of the greatest fashion innovators – with the exception of US Vogue’s Anna Wintour, and Vogue Paris‘s Carine Roitfeld – made their mark in the world by being themselves, no matter how idiosyncratic it seemed. And that’s where London-based cobbler Chau Har Lee fits into my life.
Chau Har Lee is a 29-year-old shoe designer who obtained her long-winded education at UK’s most prestigious: Cordwainer College (London College of Fashion), Royal College of Art and Camberwell College of Art. She’s the recipient of multiple awards including the 2009 Manolo Blahnik prize and International Talent Support competition, she’s been featured in fashion magazines such as British Vogue, Nylon and i-D, and she’s worked with fashion powerhouses Burberry and Nicole Farhi early in her career. A fan for pushing the “shoe envelope,” Ms. Har used materials such as stainless steel, walnut wood, acrylic and leather to create architectural shoes you could envision completing Maison Martin Margiela’s runway collection.
There’s no word as to when we’ll be able to get our hands on a pair, but she says she’s currently working on her 2010 collection in her East London studio.
Graduate Fashion Week, Cooperative Deigns, Petra Toujani, Stephanie Moran, Holly Russell, Hannah Buswell, Gemma Murphy, Baby Phat, Ruth Root, Baumraum, Zandra Rhodes, Lady Diana
In Collection, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, London, One to Watch, designer, dress on December 2, 2009 at 4:59 pm
When looking at a designer’s collection, the obvious question “Would I wear this?” comes to mind. But sometimes, it’s not that easy, because it’s common to get caught-up in the glitz and glam of fashion rather than the practicalities of it (price point being one of them). Therefore, I try not to do too many write-ups on designers if their clothes don’t present the functionality and concept that interests me, because then I’ll just be highlighting designers for the sake of it. In this case though, these university graduates don’t have staple collections – yet. So they’re merely showcasing their talents.
It’s a shame though, because when they say they’d one day like to establish their own labels, I’m looking at what they’ve done and thinking “this is hot!” But due to financial hardships and everything else, they have to gain more experience working for other establishments first.
In this particular case, if I had the money, and I knew them, I would most definitely buy out their collections before hand. If I had a photo shoot, there’s no question that they’d be one of the first people I’d call. Their meticulous attention to detail hasn’t gone unnoticed – at least by me.
Stephanie Moran
According to her bio, UCA Epsom graduate Stephanie Moran’s final collection (part of London Graduate Fashion Week) was cinematic, feminine and punk – just how I like it. An obvious fan of feathers and beading, Ms. Moran took inspiration from 1940s divas, femme fatales and Burlesque to create a collection that explored the line between titillation and property.
Ultimately, when it comes to fashion and art, everything is left to interpretation, but Ms. Moran has demonstrated an authentic ability to incorporate past and present in an enticing, yet wearable way.
Gemma Murphy
While I’m not keen on looking like a christmas tree topper, I don’t mind Ms. Murphy’s holiday ornament inspired designs. The monochromatic colour palette is congenial with the overall look of the collection. And the fact that she specializes in knitwear will be a major benefit to her; she’ll be able pump out those staple pieces for the fashionably conscious in colder climates.
Holly Russell
Maybe you’re not a fan of wearing synthetic wigs and beetle wings on your clothes. But if it looks artistic and flows effortlessly into my own sense of style, I would.
Holly Russell took things perceived as ugly and literally transformed them into beautiful garments. The MMU graduate was inspired by animals, minerals and outer space – very British in idea – and of course, digital print. Specific highlights were the pig suede high-waist trousers and sequin nude coloured-top embellished with green/blue metallic beetle wings.
Petra Toujani
Imagine what life would be like if your work was recognized by a pink-haired lady who once designed for the late Lady Diana? Tis the story of Petra Taoujni. Her collection, short-listed for the Zandra Rhodes Textile Award was traditionally inspired by a plethora of things, including Moravian costume from South-East Czech Republic and Hussein Chalayan’s designs. But it did have a lot of misses. Some of the pieces looked more like a Baby Phat collection than ready-to-wear fashion, but when she had a hit, it was stellar. I believe that she’s one for growth, and once she’s associated with the right band of fashion leaders, she’ll flourish.
Hannah Buswell
As you may have noticed by now, I have a soft-spot for designers who aren’t afraid to push print and colour boundaries. For her final collection, Hannah Buswell chose an interesting concept: vegetable plots and wooden clad tree houses by Baumraum and the work of artist Ruth Root. Of all the designers mentioned she’s more refined, having worked with Cooperative Deigns A/W 2008 collection with Hussein Chalayan. her own collection is an influx of aboriginal print, abstract expressionism and houndstooth, with shapes and colours intermingled creating fun, impressive pieces.
Ashish, basso & brooke, Betsey Johnson, black blazer, brown leopard print, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klien, Halston, Jonathan Saunders, Mary Katrantzou, Namalee Bolle, new rave, Paul & Joe Sister, retro, silk chiffon dress, spring/summer 2010, Style.com, Tim Blanks
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, Trend, Trend Report, designer on December 1, 2009 at 6:42 pm
Betsey Johnson Spring/Summer 2010
ASHISH Acid Green,Sequined one-shoulder body con dress in colourful animal print.
Animal skin is having a moment – for the gazillionth time – but the emphasis is more on traditional brown leopard or black-and-white zebra prints. Colourful animal prints were an obvious theme for more edgy designers in their collections, but I didn’t really find it embraced by the masses. I can’t really guess why, except maybe it was too eccentric – too `80s retro. And you know, that’s okay, but colourful animal print, when you really look at it, is a timeless fashion insignia. You can throw on a black blazer to give it a more contemporary feel, or if you’re rock/punk influenced (like me) you can accentuate it with a leather biker jacket for that extra glam. There’s so much you can do with it, you just have to let your imagination run wild.
Burberry Prorsum Spring/Summer 2010
Paul & Joe Sister‘s Tiffany Aqua Alba silk-chiffon dress with empire-line
Every woman is going to be wearing Tiffany aqua for spring/summer 2010. Especially if it’s a frilly, floaty chiffon dress with drapings and ruches. Tiffany aqua has traditionally been used for bridesmaid dresses – particularly outdoor weddings, as the accents in the sky and trees compliment it’s placid flavour. Anyone can pull it off, but the colour is genuinely flattering on darker skin with golden undertones, and it’s wise to keep accessories and add ons to a minimum.
Basso & Brooke Spring/Summer 2010
JONATHAN SAUNDERS Benwell, multicoloured graphic printed dress.
Contrary to Mr. Tim Blanks review on Style.com, Basso & Brooke’s s/s 2010 collection was most definitely a highlight of all shows. Maybe I’m biased; I’ve been a fan of the line since their muse, Namalee Bolle, introduced me to it two years ago. Not only that, it’s obvious (to me at least) that they’ve thrust the very British new rave movement into the mainstream through fashion. And its been adapted by designers who have either toned the concept down (Jonathan Saunders), or intensified it (Mary Katrantzou). It may be a bit too much for some, but if you’ve followed new rave (or NU-rave as it’s also known) at some point, then you get what B&B were trying to convey through their graphic digital print. But maybe that’s why Mr. Blanks didn’t get it, he’s not in touch with this bombilate, colourful era.
Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2010
HALSTON Citron yellow Silk-blend batwing dress
Yellow doesn’t have to just be worn in spring or summer. According to the site crystal-cure.com, wearing yellow “adds clarity to decision-making, sharper concentration skills and protection from lethargy and depression during dull weather.” Maybe it’s a good idea to wear it during harsh winter months and gloomy days to keep your spirits up. Yellow is clean and crisp. Safer than white or cream, yet more serious than pink, the colour yellow represents wisdom; particularly when worn in dusty or citrus hues with a minimal concept structure (pictured).
Images courtesy of:
Net-A-Porter.com
Elle.com
Style.com
