Archive for 2010
1984, American vogue, Armani Privé, Cacharel, Calvin Klein, Dolce & Gabbana, Donna Karan, Erdem, gareth pugh, Giorgio Armani, Hermes, Hilary Clinton, Lara Stone, Michael Kor, Michelle Obama, minimalism, Olympics, Rick Owen, Rick Owens, Viktor & Rolf
In Fashion on July 26, 2010 at 6:08 pm
In January of 1984, American Vogue made a tribute to modernity. Sally Ride was the first woman to head into space, the Olympics presented more opportunities for women and the runways liberated our bodies with men’s clothing. Hair was also significantly shorter. Athletes and models were praised for being womanly rather than emaciated. The ideal of ‘men’s’ attire meant we preferred a looser, more serious wardrobe to that of the glitz and sex from the `70s.
Giorgio Armani made jackets in masculine cuts, while Donna Karan and Calvin Klein capitalized on minimalism. Grey jersey dresses and wide-leg trousers meant we were tired of the fuss. Could this have been a much-needed women’s revolution?
Fast forward to 2010. Giorgio has launched Armani Privé, a sparkling collection of evening dresses and gowns, and Calvin Klein, while still true to minimalism, is severely feminine. Floral was ubiquitous by the likes of Dolce & Gabbana and Erdem. Viktor & Rolf bathed their collection in Tulle and Michael Kors laced his runway with furs. Models are now a size 0 or smaller. Hair is longer, braided and tossed to the side, or, freely flowing playful. If there is a hint of womanly, it’s in the form of the sultry Lara Stone, who, despite being a buxom blond, possesses the face of an innocent Lolita. The closest thing to grown-up on the runway is a dominatrix, sashaying in leather as seen in Hermès. Then there’s the complete morbidity of Rick Owens and Gareth Pugh. No matter which way you look at it, fashion appears to be going through puberty. It’s taken ten steps back.
Michelle Obama is a cultural step forward being a woman of colour. But she is essentially a traditionalist: her physique is powerful, but she revels in the frills of pretty. And our heroes of today, hard as it is to believe, are girls from the flimsy world of reality TV – it’s no wonder fashion is in such a state.
If fashion is influenced by current events, it’s surely stuck in a rut. There’s a need for that modern-essence that gave it such clear director back in 1984.
American vogue, British Vogue, Elle, Elle Canada, Fashion, Flare, Paris Vogue, Vanity Fair
In Fashion on July 20, 2010 at 3:28 pm
Are magazines a dying breed? Never. What about Fashion magazines? Is that even a question? Gen Y is too sophisticated to not read magazines. Gen X is benched between the internet and the ideals of print. And the echelon of taste-makers are too powerful. Fashion magazines are addictive. It’s deeper than the editorial spreads or designer profiles. You’re learning a library of history in the span of an article. To hold a glossy magazine, in your hands, then create a zeitgeist going as far back as 10 years (in my case, I have Vogue from 1984) – that’s a trajectory to the smart stars. When a magazine starts to discolour and pages fall out of the sockets, you hold the power. And if you’ve actually read all of the magazine in your go, even better.
When I started seriously collecting Vogue, I chose the British edition – for obvious reasons. But I had never really read it properly. There was something about it that just went over my head. It was too wordy, to cerebral. So, I went back to my first one – I had a lot of catching up to do – no wait, actually, I started reading back issues of Flare, Fashion and Elle Canada – Canadian fashion magazines. The Canadian glossies to me were stepping stones towards my growth to the more coveted titles. Once I got through them, all 50 or so, then I moved on to British Vogue. It was tedious. It was tiring, but I did it. Now, I’m amazed that I can get through British Vogue in one sitting. Well, okay maybe two. But it’s so much more digestible then it was all but a month ago. I’ve even taken to buying all the English-language editions with the exception of Vogue Paris. I’ve also moved on to various editions of Elle and Harper’s Bazaar. See what I mean? To say it’s fulfilling is too easy a world. It’s more like, emancipation.
OK. magazines don’t necessarily have the depth of books, they’re not supposed to. But now, after reading glossies by the pound, I can read a feature in Vanity Fair and have an opinion on whether the story was shit (like the latest cover on Angelina Jolie). I mean hey, Vanity Fair – I love you, I really do – is the Crème de la Crème of the mag world, no? Newspapers are now a breeze and I’m curious if books can fill the black whole in the middle of my brain.
chanel, Justin Bieber, Katy Perry, Miley Cyrus
In Canadian, Fashion on July 19, 2010 at 7:52 pm
To the young hopefuls squished behind barriers amid the suffocating heat, a hundred yards was as close as they’d ever get to the beloved Hannah Montana star. For me, well, I liked her Chanel clogs. It was the day of the 2010 Much Music Video Awards. Its co-host, Miley Cyrus, was svelte with mannequin-thin legs and teeth so white they looked like clip-on dentures. Dressed in a black fringe dress and bowler hat (I prefer to think of it as the Boy George), it was a strange outfit, but coming from a country western crooner teen queen, it made sense. There was an array of outfits throughout the night, but the white one, yeah, the one where she looked like a mummy who refused to stay buried instead of “tamed,” 
and the other one with the knee socks, daisy dukes and head bandana for “partyin’ in the USA”, 
uh-uh. She needs a new stage stylist. She’s an alright girl. I like her charisma. And she made a good effort to at least appear interested, and her presenter dresses were on point. But unlike Rihanna and Beyonce who wear covetable costumes on stage – to the point that they’re better than their ‘everyday’ clothes – these stage looks were a dud. Katy Perry’s shimmery “California Gurls” get-up was way better than this. (It had me thinking it would be cute to play dress-up in for the boyfriend.)
Even Justin Bieber’s bright blue,outdated, skinny jeans could take a pass. Miley, I know you country singers like a little bit of cheese. But seriously honey, what were you thinking?
2011, fashion week, Juun J, menswear, Paris, spring/summer, Viktor & Rolf
In Fashion, Fashion Heat on June 25, 2010 at 6:18 pm
This spring 2011 collection is exactly what you would expect from a designer that thinks outside the box. Congratulations to Korean designer Juun J for killin’ it with the avant-garde. Masculine yet feminine, sexy yet asexual, it’s Gothic, extremely moody yet one hell of a ride. You don’t need to confidence to wear Juun J. Matter-of-fact, it’s perfectly suited to the person who is quite the opposite. It’s for the understated fashion indulgent who makes huge statements through little things. He or she is intimidating at first glance, but you can’t turn away. All you want to know is “Where did you get that, and how do I get it?” You need to love Juun J, because you need something new and refreshing in your closet. The spider-web graphic print leggings and fiery red biker jackets are dangerously enticing, and the utility overcoats are giving a bit of ‘jazz’ with white and royal purple colourways.
Amsterdam design team Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren put a lot of passion into their womenswear wear. And while I consider Viktor & Rolf up there in ranks as fashion designers, I wasn’t that impressed with their spring 2011 collection. As much as they love to push the boundaries in fashion, this collection seems rather safe. Sure the rug trimming on the suits were interesting, as were the mint coloured shoes, but I know they could have raised the bar for their men’s wear just a bit higher. But what I will say, is that the collection is very plush: the tailoring is clean, and the fabrics are silky. They are in a league of their own with what they do, and I understand them not wanting to be too ambitious with menswear, but there’s always ways of playing with ideas while still keeping it within reason. Let us hope that the next collection brings about a bit more inspiration.
chanel, Christian Louboutin, Claridge, Diane von Furstenberg, Gwyneth Paltrow, Joan Collins, Mark Ronson, Natalia Vodianova, Tom Ford, Victoria Beckham
In Fashion, Fashion Heat on June 25, 2010 at 4:50 pm
So, as it was, 200 people in the creative industry were exclusively gathered at the Claridge’s Hotel in Mayfair, UK in celebration of its design collaboration with fashion design icon Diane von Furstenberg. As you can imagine, all eyes were on Victoria Beckham and Gwyneth Paltrow who attended the event decked-out in all-black designer ensembles. But there were other, lesser-known attendees that were worthy of at least some fashion nods. I say, to even be considered for an invitation from Ms. von Furstenberg means you must have sniffed in the right direction, someway, somehow.
Tom Ford is that beautiful man who every joe should aspire to be: sexy, seductive and effortless. You can’t imagine how many women out there gripe at his gayness. But you know, gay or straight, this fashion icon always looks clean, even with a bit of stubble (as seen here). And what’s he wearing? You guessed it, Tom Ford.
Supermodel extraordinaire Natalia Vodianova always radiates. This russian-born princess is a true rags-to-riches story. She’s one of the few catwalkers who has made the successful transition to the fairytale life. Dressed a silk chiffon purple dress with off-white Christian Louboutins, what can you really say about her? And to think that she has two kids.
Sure Mark Ronson has made the best-dressed list of countless men’s magazines. But haven’t you noticed how this awkwardly tall producer pulls off awkwardly tight floods? He’s working that doo-wop style to his advantage.
Ah, Joan Collins, the dynasty queen. She’s the one who made power shoulders and tacky-texan bela beauty a phenomenon. And as you can see, she’s traded in the bouffant for a subtler bob, but she’s still absolutely stunning.
I thoroughly enjoy artist Tracey Emin. She always looks like she’s having fun and she carries off her looks with an immense amount of confidence. In effect her outfits always work.
All I know about Bailey is that she’s a model – of some sort. The Chanel floor-length dress is worth noting. And she’s enviously waif (naturally). Not many can pull off Chanel; either it’s geared towards the haggard and old, or verythin. Preferrably both. Luckly, Bailey falls in the latter category. She did this one well.
Lady GAGA, Showstudio, Vogue
In Fashion, Fashion Heat on June 25, 2010 at 2:19 pm
“Lady GaGa becomes the first artist in digital history to have three songs top the 4 millions download mark” Peace FM Online
“Lady Gaga’s proud dad, Joseph Germanotta, phoned Manhattan strip club HeadQuarters and insisted on buying her a $700 magnum of Laurent Perrier champagne when she partied there” myFOXla.com
“Pop singer Lady Gaga has been slammed by the anti-drugs campaigners after she admitted to her fans that she loves ecstasy.” DNA India
“A Russian billionaire gave the pop singer the huge sum for the chance to star alongside her in the 9-minute promo for ’Alejandro’.” Post Zambia
“Lady Gaga is not about to join the ranks of celebrity mums – because she’s frightened of babies” The Press Association
Yes. The world has officially gone gaga for the lady. Whether it be Vogue, Showstudio, countless blogs and the like. You can chew her up, spit her up, oogle her, admire her. I suppose she’s become a voice of rebellion so many people are craving right now. Her trajectory to the top has been unstoppable; she gets more and more absurd with every video, every outfit, and it seems to be quenching a thirst. Well, her she is, your GOD, your saviour. It’s all for you.
2011, Cacharel, Cédric Charlier, resort
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, One to Watch on June 24, 2010 at 10:47 pm
I remember trying, passionately, to pitch a story on Parisian-born designer Cédric Charlier. Of course, as you can imagine, my emails went unanswered. When was named the Creative Director for 50-year-old design house Cacharel, was it really that surprising? Now, three collections later, he’s dropped the print-bomb to luminous effect. When I first came across this 2011 resort line, for some reason, I couldn’t help but think Alfred Hitchcock’s 1963 horror The Birds. The intensity of the prints, the vivid colourways, I just can’t help but feel as though it’s the dead of night, and I’m sitting next to a swamp that’s flooded with Viola odoratas and white oleanders, with nothing but the moonlight hovering over me. And as I peer up. Looking ahead, there’s a black flock of crows swarming the moon and coating the sky like death. It’s scary – as hell – but at the same time, in a twisted way, there’s beauty in it all.
2011, Dean and Dan Caten, DSquared2, menswear, Milan, Roberto Cavalli, spring/summer
In Fashion, Fashion Heat on June 24, 2010 at 10:02 pm
The Italian’s love for flash and grandeur seems to have rubbed off on Canadian design-duo Dean and Dan Caten of DSquared2. It’s not a bad thing, because they’re able to add the right amount of sleaze conjuring up sexy collection of euro-glittery pieces that are bright, bold yet very clean. There’s a bit of Americano and uppity oxford-chic that’ll be a big inspiration across the pond. And emerald green shorts! Oh the wonders!
To be a fan of Roberto Cavalli is to love flash, cash and not a lot of dash. This collection bled textures and colours in ways only Cavalli knows how. But it’s always when you take away the ostentation in favour of the simple, elegant slim-fitting white suit, or that loosely draped amethyst sweater that displays Cavalli’s true showmanship. There was a lot of suede and lots and lots of denim. Could it be that fashion is finally going back to basics?
2011, collections, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, menswear, Paris, spring/summer
In Fashion, Fashion Heat on June 24, 2010 at 5:38 pm
Believe me when I say this is just the beginning. Men’s fashion week is the most underrated, but shouldn’t go unnoticed because it is a designer’s inspiration for their women’s collections that follows suit.
Jean-Paul Gaultier has been taking it to the streets since the start of his career. But you can see the aesthetic in all 59 looks of his spring/summer 2011 collection more than any other time. Here, he’s explosive with the graphic prints and Keffiyeh-like scarves. And he’s taken his collection to the middle east with the Jodhpur pants and oversized pull-over shirts.
At Louis Vuitton, Paul Helbers (the brand’s menswear designer) kept it clean. As per usual. it’s on a completely different route than Marc Jacob’s over-the-top womenswear, but Helbers use of neutral tones are worth noting. The one miss was the translucent button-ups, they were reminiscent of those cheesy, 90s club hoppers women so tried to avoid.
balenciaga, Courtney Love, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Nicolas Ghesquière, Pier Paolo Piccioli, Resort 2011, valentino
In Fashion, Fashion Heat on June 23, 2010 at 4:56 pm
Valentino – at the hands of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli – has taken a bit of a… sinister turn. Not that there’s anything wrong with it, I suppose, as this transition is taking the once fantasy-like ballgowns into something a bit more, emepheral, if you will. As to whether I would have worn Valentino then or now is irrelevant. But I do appreciate the gothic elements. However, I’m not crazy about the `60s inspired theme that reaps throughout the resort collection. The way I feel about it, Chiuri and Piccioli have already moved two steps forward, so keep moving. There’s few that can master the art of faux-60s fashion, Nicolas Ghesquière for Balenciaga at the helm, so it’s a tricky area if you’re still feeling your way. I do apprecate the ruffles and graphic prints in this collection. The lace embellishments also very Courtney Love-esq: bold, waif, and free.
cupcakes
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, Op Ed., culture on June 14, 2010 at 1:31 am
There’s a new seductress in town. She’s got a body like Jessica Rabbit, and for the record, no, she’s out not for your man (well, maybe, if he’s into that kinda thing), she’s out for you. She’s enthralling to look at, so look away you must – quickly. You see, if she catches your eye, there’s no turning back. She’s a femme fatale that’ll make you fall in love, and it’s dangerous, because before you know it, it’ll be endless romps with you, she and your favorite book, TV show, whatever. And it won’t be pretty – particularly when jogging pants and hoodies become your preferred outfit of choice. She’s a sumptuous womaneater that’ll keep you coming back for more. She is, respectively, the sickeningly sweet, fluffy, cupcake.
Women all over are diving headfirst into the world of cupcake making. In December `09, British Vogue ran a lengthy cover story on its rise to superstardom that featured supermodel-turned-Pastry extraordinaire Lorraine Pascale, and Peggy Porschen, a cupcake connoisseur and her book, Pretty Party Cakes.
For the record, while I’ve always said I can cook (well, there was a time when I made decent efforts to. I think I was madly in love then), the idea of baking never appealed to me. Me? bake? cupcakes? But when I looked to the end of the magazine – the ‘advertising feature’ – had not one, but two pages of pastry shops with an layout of the treats. Cupcakes by Charley, Cupcake-a-licious (ripped from Destiny’s Child’s Bootylicious), Yummy Days, Cupcakes by Design (sounds architectural, doesn’t it), and simply, Fancie.
While I found it all to be quite fascinating, it was, at the same time, overwhelming. But what I learned, which is new to me, is that baking is empowering. Not just cooking. And I don’t quite think it’s purely about the aesthetic of a pretty cupcake, either. Well, maybe a big chunk of it, as most people like beautiful things. Let alone beautiful things you can eat.
Cupcakes are the new black! They’re fashionable, amazing gift ideas (well, I’d certainly be happy with them) and perfect for an evening soirée with friends. You might say no to desert, but I can attest, if those cupcakes are sitting there, staring at you, you won’t be able to resist the idea of having, you know, just a slice.
Browns Fashion, valentino, my-theresa, Paul & Joe, Forever 21, Current Elliot, House of Harlow, Reborn, Saks Fifth Avenue, Denis Gagnon
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, In the Know, Shopping, designer on June 12, 2010 at 7:40 pm
balenciaga, suzy menkes, London, Nicolas Ghesquière, Jil Sander, +J, Uniqlo, J Plus, raf Simons, International Herlad, Belgium, Europe
In Icon, designer, style on June 7, 2010 at 7:11 pm
I was drawn to Jil Sander before I had an intellectual grasp of high-fashion. The times I’d read Vogue (not even half as vehemently as I do now) introduced me to Jil Sander advertisements with models over-posed in minimalist pieces in vibrant, and very digestible, colourways. Definitely not as pungent as a Lacoste ad, but not as dramatic as Fendi or Prada. I suppose Sander was my introduction to fashion appreciation. And she was safe, much like my fashion personality at the time(or maybe lack thereof). Naturally, in later years, as my gravitational pull towards elaborate ‘statement’ designers like Nicolas Ghesquière for Balenciaga took hold, Sander was buried in the back of my fashion psyche in favour of the extravaganza of fashion, rather than the practicality of it.
When I lived in London, Japanese brand Uniqlo was no where near my radar of interest. It just wasn’t. I found it bland, unattractive, and too colourful (a shirt is a shirt is a shirt). And sure, Uniqlo’s ads were somewhat okay – and plastered in every tube station - but I never bought a stitch. In a city like London where fast-fashion is served like McDonald’s, the competition was stiff,(Urban Outfitters was more me, and American Apparel was so much cooler).
I’ve come back full circle with my love for Jil Sander. The woman behind the namesake has long left the brand, and in her place is the just as stark Raf Simons. And now that I can conceptualize fashion, I’m fascinated by Belgium, even professing that should I go back to Europe, Belgium is at the top of my places to live (considering the talent that reaps throughout the country).
I’d paid slight attention to the real Jil Sander launching a collection for Uniqlo. But after reading a heart-felt piece by Suzy Menkes for the International Herald Tribune, my heart – to say the least – is in a different place. Sander and her former self are now two completely different entities, and she’s apart of something so much bigger than her name.
I’ve yet to see a Uniqlo in Toronto. But, there’s a truth to be told. If I go back to Great Britain, back to good ‘ole London, it’ll be just in time as the line hits stores in September. And I guess, I’m a bit relieved. I say that because this collaboration, +J for Uniqlo, will be the one time I will be able to afford a piece of something from someone who in a way, cultivated the way I view fashion today.
H&M, American Apparel, style, chanel, toronto, Diesel, G-Star, Gap, Urban Outfitters, cr8rive recreation, supra, guys, girls, Marilyn Monroe, Tiffany, Sephora, Holt Renfrew, Marc by Marc Jacobs, minx nails
In Fabric, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Global Musing, In the Know, style on June 7, 2010 at 4:34 pm
I want to say welcome, but that’s kinda lame, so I’ll get to the point.
The brilliant idea of trend spotting switched on a head bulb. I know – don’t ask. The idea of style stocking is so passé that it’s now a washed-out global phenom. Style Photogs are scoring book deals, landing front rows at revered fashion collections, and becoming the point-of-reference for a slew of pop-up Trend agencies.
So why, you ask, would this idea only occur to me now? Well, I scoped it in a certain magazine (that shall be nameless), and I felt it was done so colorfully, so originally but yet, so vaguely, that I had wanted to rip the idea and take it a step further. I want to grab trends from every crevice of the planet. And that, my friends, takes dedication. While I won’t be doing it everyday, I’ll defo be plugging it in once a week (to start). And I have a goal. I won’t share my goal (that’s why it’s a goal), but it’s a feasible one. So here we go.
Toronto guys, for the most part, have an uncategorizable style. One minute it’s eurotrash, the next it’s hipster punk. But lately, the T.O guy’s been rocking a mod-sportif ; hi-tops – preferably Cr8tive Recs, or Supra - add futuristic funk to an otherwise semi-bland jeans-hoodie combo. Most up-town guys are big on G-Star, but they are, thanks to the cities thriving downtown hipster culture, starting to catch on to American Apparel. But you know, AA’s sweatshirts are being upstaged by the purposely ‘ragged’ staples found at Urban Outfitters or Gap. And that Parisian chic scarf, almost annihilated across the pond, is still going strong here. Distressed Diesel jeans are back with a vengeance, but come to think of it, they never really went anywhere, anyway.
Toronto Ladies are a special bunch. They’re prissy, pretty and completely untouchable. That’s right. They’re shopping like fashion editors. And they’ve ripped their outfits straight off the tear sheets of their favorite society magazines (and H&M) which means they’ve got the confidence to talk their way into the hottest happenings in the city. And not only will you have to buy them (and their crew) drinks and dinner at five-star spots, you’ll have to lavish them with – Marilyn Monroe said it best – Tiffany’s. The T.O girl’s upping Toronto’s ‘it’ style ante with super-short, or maxi-long. She’s got her minx on, she’s a fixture at Sephora and Holt Renfrew. However, vintage is a serious trend in Toronto, and she’s suddenly been empowered by the consignment store. Now, Chanel bags and Marc by Marc Jacobs dresses are right on par with her expenditure budget.
ready-to-wear, chanel, karl lagerfeld, Fendi, Goth, victorian, ruffle, jabots, admiral, brocade
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, RTW, culture on June 7, 2010 at 12:51 am
Chanel - what I chic name. Then again, I’m attracted to all things chic. The way the name rolls off the tongue is like an ice cube melting in your mouth – the water drizzling down your chin. I’ve noticed, since I’ve been reading archives, Canadian magazines are in love with Chanel. Whether it’s fragrance, cruise collections or runway collections, they’re always front and center of this coveted french atelier.
Admittedly, I’m also a hardcore Chanel fan. Though I’m not sure if it’s more about the man behind the brand than the brand itself. Could it be that Canadian magazine Editors saturate the brand to be closer to him? I mean, Monsieur Karl Lagerfeld is a character all himself. With his starched-high collars, sleek black shades and leather motorcycle gloves emblem, he is the epitome of quintessential chic.
Since falling in love with Goth culture, I’ve noticed the dark underpinnings in his Chanel collections (considering Fendi and his namesake are more commercially appealing). I’m addicted to victorian-ruffled blouses, the monochromatic black scale palette (of course), jabots, admirals, Jacquard prints, brocade – all of it. And the younger Chanel, the ready-to-wear Chanel, exemplifies that gothic element for me. She’s what I aspire to be; mysterious, confident and forward. Obviously not all of it, but it peaks it’s pretty head; a shirt here, pant there, even a tweak in it’s traditional tweed jacket.
I’ve made an official claim that I’ll be sitting front and centre at the fashion world’s most sought-after collections, starting this year. And Chanel is not, by no means, exempt from this promise. I better get busy, I have a lot of work to do. 
Swathed in black fabric, the way I like it.
The man of my dreams? Not quite, but he’ll do for now.
2010, Angela Missoni, Cruise, Missoni, tribal print
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, In the Know, Trend, designer, style on June 1, 2010 at 7:49 pm
When someone tells you something’s a hot trend, listen. For months, I’ve told friends, editors – everyone – to pay attention to tribal print’s comeback. Not that it went anywhere. Bright, bold and zesty, the tribal print is the pretty floral’s evil twin. And everyone, meaning all the hot designers and trend setters have jumped the bandwagon.
I’m not, nor have I ever been, hot about Missoni. To me, it’s the label of a brand whore. You know, chicks that scream “Look at me! I’m ballin’!” That’s not my style. Sorry. But you see, Missoni’s take on tribal print? It could be because the brand’s ace at creating blaring patterns, that’s why they’ve killed it (in a good way) with the tribal. You’re damn right I’d wear this. And I love that it doesn’t look like Missoni at first glass, unless you’re a die-hard fan.
What’s my rating on this? Thumbs up to Angela Missoni for this 2010 Cruise collection. Cop it, if you can!
matthew williamson, Henry Holland, Julien Macdonald, Debenhams, Swimwear, Fiona Kennedy
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look on June 1, 2010 at 5:30 pm
Those of us who’ve grown accustomed to Henry Holland’s alternative edge, will be surprised to know that he’s recently designed a swimwear range for UK department chain Debenhams. A Chain! Henry Holland! Fear not. For those of you that don’t know, Debenhams, aside from TopShop, is also considered cool whipping up affordable collaborations with designers like Matthew Williamson and Julien MacDonald.
The face of the campaign, a pint-sized cutie named Fiona Kennedy was equally shocked. “I was a little dazed when I got the call – it was completely unexpected. I’ve never done anything remotely like this before. ” Well sweetheart, consider yourself lucky.
The good news is that at 8-20 pounds a pop, pieces from the collection are reasonably - actually dirt – cheap. The bad news, well, it’s not available across the pond (at least not to my knowledge).
I’ve never really been crazy about bikini - or florals. But I would do this one. Probably because the base is black (a colour I can’t live without) embellished with pungent hues of yellow, pinks and fuchsia.
Alexander Wang, Benjamin Bronfman, Gap, Jay-Z, Kanye West, Lil' Wayne, M.I.A, Mathangi "Maya" Arulpragasam, New York Times Magazine, Paper Planes, Sri Lanka, T.I., Tamil Tiger, Wyclef Jean
In Fashion on May 30, 2010 at 9:53 pm
M.I.A’s a revolutionist. And not in the conventional sense. With her infectious tunes (Paper Planes being her most memorable) political innuendos, dashing good looks, and exuberant style sense, she’s been titled the official queen of hipster-dom. But gimmicks aside, she’s added some much-needed colour to music’s current bland (and deteriorating) state.
Not one to shy away from controversy, she recently sparked some online feud with ex-New York Times editor Lynn Hirschberg for she claims to be a fabrication of facts for a recently printed profile. Truth said, I don’t blame M.I.A. It’s not her fault she’s beautiful, and in tune with fashion and art. She uses these tools as vital weapons to get her point across. And even if her songs only graze the surface of the Tamil Tiger feud in Sri Lanka, if it gets people listening, is it really that bad? (As it stands, despite M.I.A infamous Grammy appearance with the fearsome four T.I., Jay-Z, Lil’ Wayne and Kanye West, according to M.I.A, nothing changed.)
Since seeking refuge in America (she was put on a black list and not permitted entry by the time Kala was released), she’s adding mother and de facto wife to Benjamin Bronfman to her resume, and is set to release her third studio album Maya.
In the case of M.I.A, it’s more than the visual aesthetic, she’s a true testement of someone walking the walk. She – along with Wyclef Jean – can speak of pain, because they come from it.
Oh, and by the way, pictured here and looking gorgeous as ever, is M.I.A dawning Alexander Wang for GAP at the 2010 MET Gala. Take That.
ankle boot, Burberry, Goth, Lanvin, leather, Pierre Hardy, Rick Owens, Sam Edelman
In Boots, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, designer on May 28, 2010 at 10:01 pm
Shoes. What fashion obsessed person doesn’t love ‘em. Your alter-ego – dressed in a willowy white lace gown – lays kissing the sun beside a Pierre Hardy hill that, suddenly, erupts with an explosion of shoes that whack you splat in the face (ouch!). As this fantasy produces the most intense orgasmic experience you’ve ever had in your life, it’s a dream few can relate to.
People who consider an obsession with fashion to be superficial – quite frankly, lack common sense. Just like a caveman needed fur to survive brutal storms, you, the fashionista, needs your shoes. And if you can beautify your feet with intricately detailed footwear, you must – by all means – indulge.
I’ve rambled on about my obsession with all things goth. And I don’t mind owning various kinds of the same item, it’s a necessity. And it’s amazing how inventive and creative the black leather ankle boot can be.
The black leather ankle boot is the most versatile on the shoe lot. It’s sporty with a hypersexual undertone (think S&M). Maybe I am – a hypersexual being. I mean, if you have a fetishism for shoes, or have an admiration for gothic culture, wouldn’t it make sense? Regardless, it’s the ultimate power play not many men have the skill to handle.
Burberry leather ankle boot
Lanvin leather ankle boots
Rick Owens leather sex boot
Sam Edelman ankle boot
Balmain, Chloé, Giuseppe Zanotti, Bonadrag, Hawk, Ladyhawke, The Wild Hunt
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, Trend, Trend Report on May 24, 2010 at 11:55 pm
The runway is easy work; designers and their stylists infiltrate the trends editors and bloggers ogle over. While it’s surely a great help, it’s amazing how your imagination can create something out of the most unconventional sources. That’s what makes the most prolific fashion designers so brilliant.
In this case, the bird of prey - more specifically – the hawk , has been a reoccurring theme for me. Even though they’re seen as ruthless vultures , in myth, they represent awareness, truth and foresight (which I’m sure has much to do with their 20/20 vision). According to Bookrags, the Hawk symbolizes ”divine majesty, the superiority of the intellect over the physical and of the spiritual over the material.”
Now, this doesn’t particularly mean it’s time to go shopping for feathers and furs. When I think of the Hawk, I see hooded cloaks, a military green colour palette, and architectural silhouettes. It’s interestingly dark. It’s a bit… anarchic. When I thought of the Hawk, my mind immediately went to the 1985 fantasy flick Ladyhawke and 2009 Canadian drama film The Wild Hunt.
Here, I fell for this Bonarag cape, Khaki Chloé dress, and Giuseppe Zanotti for Balmain booties. I didn’t have in a safari look in mind (though that can lean rather close), I didn’t want anything barbaric either. But I wanted a look that represents the freedom of the wilderness. With a fashion twist, of course.
British Vogue, Canadian, Fashion Editor, RTW, Sex and the City, Shop like a fashion editor
In Fashion, Op Ed., Out vs. IN on May 22, 2010 at 3:16 pm
Just kidding. You liked that didn’t you… (wink).
I’ve noticed that fashion magazines – particularly Canadian ones - have a knack for enticing readers into the glamorous world of an Editor’s closet with the phrase “Shop Like a Fashion Editor”. Oh you know, they strut into their quarters head-to-toe in RTW, and scour the country for first-rate finds you don’t have access to because , unfortunately, you are not one of them. Not that there’s anything wrong with that – it’s just cliché, and not true. Fashion Editors, and I say this from experience, are probably the most understated people. Sure, there’s some over-the-top ones, but for the most part, low-key is what makes the good ones so talented. Besides, this isn’t the 1950s,you’re not deprived; you have access to big cities (if you don’t already live in one), television, public and private transport – the world is virtually yours.
Lets not say fashion editors in general, there’s a difference, but good Market Editors are on point with trends. And that’s because after dozens of store openings and countless appointments, what makes the pages are considered (in their opinion) the choice of the month. They don’t have access to anything over you – it’s their job. Simple. I read a lot of magazines, and I conclude that the more down-to-earth Editors (shout out to British Vogue) who bring a more “everyday” perspective to fashion , are the most interesting. You don’t need to “shop like a Fashion Editor” because you’re already fabulous. They’re just telling you “here’s what you may have missed,” or “you really need to know about this because, it’s hot.”
That’s why there should be a ban on that phrase. Why not something like “Edit”, that’s so much more modern. Living in such a fast-moving world means you, the reader, can easily one-up any fashion editor, but because you’re busy with your own sex in the city life, they’re there to add to your already fantastically wonderful wardrobe.
And yeah I have an issue with Sex and the City too but that’s for another discussion.
Ann Demeulemeester, Hervé Léger
In Fashion on May 21, 2010 at 11:06 pm
Famous for her association with the Antwerp six, fashion designer Ann Demeulemeester brings an intense yet sporty aesthetic to neo-Gothic fashion. It’s no wonder her popularity is on the rise as of late; Demeulemeester is the perfect alternative rebellion to Hervé Léger’s bondage dress because it’s the real thing. You don’t just wear Demeulemeester because you want to be sexy, you wear her because you are sexy.
Erdem, Marc Jacobs, Rick Owens, Michele Lamy
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, I heart, designer on May 21, 2010 at 10:17 pm
The American-born clothing connoisseur Rick Owens is one of the few designers to thrust goth-inspired fashion into the limelight. Using minimalist silhouettes and sharp cuts as his trademark, Owens got his start in 2002 when he debuted his ready-to-wear collections before the top editors in the busy. He’s been in the business since `94, but what made him a star was the fact that his collection was reminiscent of Marc Jacob’s `95 grunge break-through. Careless and defiant against the ultra-feminine and flashy trend at the time. He’s cultivated his love for the dark side since his days as an Art student in California. But when he moved to Paris with Michele Lamy in tow, he was able to delve deeper into the realms of sexuality and S&M creating a classic, avant-garde collection.
Women turn to him for that no-nonsense, attitude fuelled concept whether heading to the boardroom or the disco. Owens’ designs are authoritative, dark and empowered, so if you’re a fan of Erdem’s luminous floral dresses, he may not be for you.
Alexander McQueen, Anglomania, Bergdorf Goodman, Beyonce, Brian Atwood, Carrie Bradshaw, Chrissie Morris, Haider Ackermann, Heels, I Don't Like Mondays, Jimmy Choo, Joan Shepp, Luichiny, Luisaviaroma, Maison Martin Margiela, Manolo Blahnik, Mrs. H, vivienne westwood
In Fashion on May 4, 2010 at 3:59 pm
Shoeaholics beware: shoes are the new sex – well, they’ve probably always been. Thanks to the infamous Jimmy Choo trotting Carrie Bradshaw, the cruelest thing you could ever do is pry any woman from her beloved clobs. She’ll never go wrong with classic red and black, but with trends flaunting studs, glitter and a rainbow of exotic in her face, it’s deadly. And everyone – I mean everyone – from the oldies (Manolo Blahnik) to the newbies (Brian Atwood) are demonstrating their undying love for a woman’s pretty feet.
We’ve just come out a slump economically, so lets celebrate by going green. It’s eco-friendly (figuratively speaking), symbolizes money (but think internal wealth, not material) and represents balance and growth. It’ll also persuade you to spice up your wardrobe as it means the ability to accept change.
Alexander McQueen Fatigue Peep-Toe Bootie, $1,295.00 available at Bergdorf Goodman. By the late-great Lee McQueen and last spotted on Beyoncé.
Chrissie Morris Tribal Print Thong Sandals, 1310.16 available at Luisaviaroma. tribal print’s been having a moment as clearly demonstrated in the haute heels.
Haider Ackermann Forest High Sandal $771, available at Mrs. H.
Luichiny Quite Rite Heel 109.99 available at Heels.
Maison Martin Margiela Faux Wedge Heel, $995 available at Joan Shepp.
Vivienne Westwood Anglomania: Melissa $153, available at I Don’t Like Mondays.
ASOS, cameo, Elly Jackson, Jades24, Jonathan Saunders, La Roux, Love Hearts and Crosses, Moschino, Mrs. H, Net-A-Porter, Piet Mondarian, Proenza Schouler, Sass and Bide, victoriana, Ziggy Stardust
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, London, UK, style on May 3, 2010 at 6:26 pm
Elly Jackson (La Roux)’s style is certainly having an impact on the world. Who would’ve thought that this tender 21-year-old ginger, who once sported a folkly look with waist-length hair would become this super-pop, super-hot icon we’re seeing today.
Jackson’s got the right amount of goth, nu-rave and rock’n'rolla to make the sexes swoon and still avoid looking like a jumble of crap! Says a lot. Congrats to her styling team for brilliantly putting her together. Sure enough, Jackson’s got a grasp on her fashion (London’s a melting pot, it’ll have an effect on anyone for god’s sake), but her teams glaming it up with futuristic explosion! What’s particularly fab is that cameo necklace she’s constantly wearing. The British emblem’s been juxtaposed with colourful leggings, a Piet Mondrian print jacket, Mars(ed)-out eyeshadow and her signature coif! I guess she’s letting people know that even though she’s upgraded, she’s still Elly from the block.
If you’re taking on the look, this confidence, confidence and a whole lot more of that confidence thingy is crucial. Sprinkle some Ziggy Stardust in your coffee and just get on with it. Cameo necklaces are worn in the most boring or conventional (gothic) ways. Do like Jackson and put a new spin on Victoriana!
Sass and Bide Heart In A Cage jacket $465. Available at Net-A-Porter.
Jonathan Saunders Totem print T-shirt (get XXL) $285. Available at N-A-P.
Moschino Leggings Shocking 349 Euros. Available at Jades24.
Proenza Schouler Black Suede Wedge, $774. Available at Mrs. H.
Cameo Locklet Necklace 14 (GBP). Available at Love Hearts and Crosses.
ASOS Statement cameo stretch bracelet, $20.29. Available at ASOS.
Bonnie & Clyde, Bridget Bardot, Charlotte Gainsbourg, English, French, Jane Birkin, Kate Barry, Lou Doillon, Serge Gainsbourg, Vanity Fair
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, Icon, culture, style on May 2, 2010 at 1:19 am
Ever since Vanity Fair put me on to Serge Gainsbourg in `07, it was like my life change. This man, who doesn’t purse many lips in Toronto (as least not around my way), made me to explore the natural coolness the French seem to harbor. Not like I didn’t know of this myth before – okay, I really didn’t. And it never occurred to me to care. But reading about how much his daughter, Charlotte craved him when he died, the impact he had on the most beautiful (Bridget Bardot), and the most sexy (Jane Birkin) women on earth, I felt compelled to find out more about this man.
I picked up Bonnie & Clyde his 1968 duet album with then-bombshell Bridget Bardot, and I’m not ready to rest until I get the rest of his albums. But it’s not until I can trace the remnants of what he left behind.
That’s when I started to do some digging. I became, and still am, fascinated by the women who were in his life. Particularly Birkin and her petals. I’m also keen on to pick up Birkin’s and Charlotte’s albums, and I’ve got to stroll through downtown Paris with Lou, completely glamorous and gorgeous woman. And Birkin’s eldest daughter, Kate Barry, though I don’t know much, I understand she’s a photographer, and I can only imagine the beauty she can manipulate through her lense.
It’s women like these, women like these that inspire me. That make me realise there’s no point in caring what anyone thinks.
1978, Easter, Jackson Pollock, Jimi Hendrix, Leslie Feist, Rock I Roll Nigger
In Fashion, Good Look, Icon, New York, music, style on May 2, 2010 at 12:29 am
It’s hard to imagine Chicago-native Patti Smith ever entertaining the idea of fashion. But when someone exudes that kind of nonchalant sexiness, she is – undoubtably – fashionable. Her artistic-expression, her voice, her presence was completely pretentious. Her style was NYC, the origin of emo, and an emblem for today’s fashion outsider. It’s catapulted Patti to legendary status. Even the audacity of Rock N Roll Nigger from her ’78 album Easter, “Jimi Hendrix was a Nigger/Jackson Pollock was a nigger” lyrics intended to liberate those who chose not to confirm, were delivered with jaw dropping crassness. And for that… hats are tipped.
Patti’s look means not caring at all. Your blazer, your tie, your shredded jeans are just so. There’s never any effort to be made, your hairs ragged, well, because you don’t comb it. It’s a look many aspire for, but very few can carry.
Patti Smith’s visual aesthetic has been emulated by many, Leslie Feist being one of them. Ultimately, Smith’s the originator of genderless-artsy, oozing with enough confidence and hardly - if ever – wearing a stitch of makeup. After all these years, she’s perfectly creased but she’s still got it. When you’re born with style like this, it transcends age and time.
Black Gold, denim, Diesel, dungarees, harem pant, Jean-Paul Gaultier, jeans, jodhpur pants, Net-A-Porter, overalls, Ralph Lauren, Shopstyle, slouch pants, TYTE, Vanessa Bruno Athé
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, Trend, Trend Report, style on May 1, 2010 at 11:20 pm
Diesel Black Gold Fall 2010
Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2010
Ralph Lauren Spring 2009
It’s time to trade in those feminine garbs for ’real’ clothes. Since we can remember, fashion’s empowered all types of women; the power-shouldered working girl, to the spike heeled, potty-mouthed punk. Designers have sent models gliding down the runway wearing a multitude of masks, but this time there’s a new girl in town. And she’s not afraid to be rugged, tried and true blue. The overall wearing worker’s woman is the star for this season.
Jean Paul Gaultier’s overalls were wide-legged, Parisian chic while Diesel’s version for it’s Black Gold collection was lolita-sexy. The most controversial of all, Ralph Lauren’s shredded super-baggy take was all-America southern comfort. Fans sat aghast, but we had to tip our hats to these designers for refusing to wear that trend-adapting security blanket.
The bleu de Gênes overalls brings a fresh perspective on fashion’s current status. Wearing them means you’re not afraid to get down with the rest of society. It’s a defiance from the trends orchestrating a glossy’s trend pages because you’re your own woman. As a form of the rebellion, the frustrated workers of the depression era, and the hip-hop youth of the `90s wore overalls as a way to define themselves as working class. For the fashion girl, it’s seeking an alternative to skin-tight clothing she’s been embracing for seasons. This time around, she’s drowning the air’s honey dew sweetness, arms shielding face while soaking up the sun.
Harem, jodhpur, and slouch pants all brought a touch of glamour to comfort. But overalls speaks depth. For a more trendy look, try them super-short with a shredded hemlines. You can also a try a slimmer, indigo for that urban cosmo appeal. If you’re brave enough, baggy, distressed overalls with your favorite converse and loose-fitting tee brings just the right amount of hick to the fashion front.
TYTE Single Pocket Overalls available at Shopstyle
Vanessa Bruno Athé dungarees available at Net-A-Porter
Marc Jacobs, Emanuel Ungaro, Michael Kors, Rad Hourani, Yves Saint Laurent, Todd Lynn, Altuzarra, Fall 2010, Fall/Winter 2010, TSE, Fall 2008, Trends
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, Trend, Trend Report, style on April 27, 2010 at 9:46 pm
Have a look at something, here:
TSE Fall 2008 – semi-amish/1950s length skirt
Marc Jacobs Fall 2010 – ditto
Todd Lynn Fall 2008 – fur
Altuzarra Fall 2010 – ditto
Emanuel Ungaro Fall 2008 – oversized grey knit
Michael Kors Fall 2010 – ditto
Yves Saint Laurent Fall 2008 – minimalist
Rad Hourani Fall 2010 – ditto
And you certainly get the drift. What I want to say is kudos to the designers who were told otherwise when they launched it. This season, they’re all over it. The early adapter took hold and moulded it while it was the understated. Everything and everyone else, came right after.
i-D magazine, Kenzo, Kimberly Stewart, celebrities, Lou Doillon
In Fashion, Op Ed. on April 26, 2010 at 8:28 pm
Kimberly Stewart – Fashion Conscious
Magazines are the go-to for what’s trendy, runways are the glitzy platform for a designer’s hard work (and money), and Celebrities – ultimately – are the guinea pigs for who wore it best. But as much as fashion is entertaining, we’re living in a time when the lines between fashion and style have run amok.
Before heading to a press meeting, I’d skimmed through an issue of i-D magazine and drew some inspiration from their lover’s issue. The models that caught my eye were a real-life Parisian couple (referred to as one of Paris’ most stylish) dawning sweatpants and layers of knits. I liked what they wore so much I decided to pile on the cardis. Considering it was windy outside, it was a good call. My nails were painted in Zoya’s Robyn, a creamy sea blue, with a braid drooped to the side and Burberry shades. Considering I’m already six-foot in four-inch heels, I must have looked a bit trendy, I suppose. After the meeting, I grabbed a stronbow (beer for girls) and sat on the patio of a trendy west-end hotelier. Lounging and drinking, as you can imagine, put something into perspective.
Lou Doillon – Stylish
When old Hollywood glamazons and socialites featured in the Vogues and Harper’s Bazaars it wasn’t who they wore, it was how it was worn. In Halston’s day, with his Halstonette’s and Yves Saint Laurent’s rise to iconic status, it became cool to wear designers and follow what was called – a trend. As told by the godfather of trending David Wolfe, “when [trends] began in the 1970s, Kenzo was ruling the world with his trend-heavy presentations in Paris that revolutionized the way fashion was communicated, merchandised and designed. And in those days it was very fast. It was very much like a costume and everybody but everybody bought into it.” What exactly does that mean? Well, basically, the whole idea of being trendy started in the `70s. Trending today is just as, if not, more ephemeral. But while the fashionista is a slave to trends, the stylish person can – and should – probably wear a paperpag with je ne sais quoi. So I’d like to understand why the fashion obsessed is the focus of so many style bloggers (and fashion magazine’s style pages), when they’re really anything but. Shouldn’t people be looking to the fashion world for trends and glorifying people who naturally exude style?
Fashion models – the top ones – and musicians, for the most part, are stylish. Kudos to style photogs that notice. If someone’s a walking fashion magazine, even if they do work at one and the chassé doesn’t look natural, it probably isn’t.
Am I fashion conscious? To a degree, but possibly slimmer than I thought. Back to the patio lounging, my eyes stumbled on a girl with a faux-fur vest – in spring – and the latest hidden heel platforms. This person, who is a Toronto fashion authority, though considered stylish, striked me as painfully fashion obsessed at that moment. I shook my head and went back to my paper. No, I’m not a fashionista at all.
central saint martins, Cheryl Cole, Estelle, Jean-Pierre Braganza, Jil Sander, karl lagerfeld, Kings of Leon, Protégé Project
In British, Canadian, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, London, One to Watch, RTW, Rouse, Trend, Trend Report, designer on April 23, 2010 at 6:14 pm
Jean-Pierre Braganza is not a newbie. He’s been designing since 2002, but I’m hoping to see a burst of mainstream recognition going foward. This British-Canadian Central Saint Martins graduate worked as a designer for Roland Mouret before being selected by Karl Lagerfeld for the Protégé Project, then debuted his eponymous collection in 2004. He creates both men’s and womenswear, and there’s a slew of celebrity fans including Kings of Leon, Estelle and Cheryl Cole.
Jean-Pierre shines when he nourishes his talent for psychadelic prints. I do however, feel he should leave the modernism to Jil Sander and concentrate on his gift for knits and draping. Maybe he’s still trying to find his comfort zone. But if he cultivates what he’s best at, he’s bound to flourish.
gareth pugh, Goth, Joseph Altuzarra, punk, Rick Owens, victorian
In Fabric, Fashion, Fashion Heat, designer, style on April 23, 2010 at 5:35 pm
Fashion Editors are calling for a nouveau punk revolution. They’re saying women are rebelling. Maybe it’s a strike against the pretty gowns some designers sent down the runway. They’d rather embrace pairing tulle with spikes than look like societe’s ideal of the wholesome girl.
I see nothing wrong with Ms. Wholesome. I’ll freely admit she’s what I strive for. She’s classy and smart. But I’ve taken a keen interest to goth girl because she’s très chic. Goth is elegant, has depth and is androgynous. The goth girl is the smart person’s wholesome girl. While Goth continues to evolve, becoming more hipsterish and emotional when young, it’s consistent. Goth can be beautified, or kept monochromatic, it doesn’t matter, the point is it’s always there. Gareth Pugh has brought a much-needed glamour to goth while Joseph Altuzarra made it more approachable. Rick Owens is more of a modernist, but there’s a hint of goth empowerment in his collections, always.
So, I’m rebelling against punk. I’d rather be timeless than hold on to something I’ll part ways with once I’ve noticed a grey hair or two. At least this way, I can exchange leather with silk, and replace my sheer black t-shirts with a Victorian style blouse. It will be a transition rather than a metamorphosis, growing more fruitful with age.
Zoya, nails, pro nails, professional nails, Beauty Editors, nail polish, nail design
In Beauty, Fashion, Fashion Heat, colour on April 23, 2010 at 4:13 pm
It’s true: women love their hands more when the weather is warmer. There’s no point in trying to understand it, when the wind feels like daggers piercing through our skin, our hands hibernate in our pockets. Then when the weatherman waves his (or her) green flag, Beauty Editors go nail gonzo and we race to our beloved nail bars for a continuum of manicures until the trees are naked and it’s back to the winter bin once again.
I noticed this when in a matter of weeks, I befriended two different nail ladies and accrued a small collection of Zoya polish. I also took an interest (one again) in nail design, eagerly booking my appointment for a minx set. Forget about it. I bare no interest in french tips or nude hues, I want bright, boisterous colours and adventurous designs.
Until moving to England I played it safe, throwing in the occasional hot pink for variety. Boredom and London’s animated culture persuaded me to give nail design a try. It complements my rather grayscale (preferably black) outfits, and is an extension of my personality because I’m quite unpredictable, you know.
I’ll admit something: there are an army of asian women with brilliant nails regardless of weather change. I adored their nails, but my bland job didn’t allow for anything but conformity. Admittedly, pretty nails is a culture for the vainer woman.
Professional nails are quite expensive (at least $35 for the prettiest nails), but I think I’ll stack up on that Zoya nail polish ($10 a pop). That way, I can keep my nails pretty during colder months.
Acne, Alexander Wang, Fall/Winter 2010
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, Trend, Trend Report on April 13, 2010 at 5:31 pm
Pictured here is a look from Acne’s Fall/Winter 2010-11 collection. The whole outfit is s o raw the model could walk right off the runway to the grocery store or where ever her heart desires. That’s what I call immacute styling. But the coat! It’s one of the most daunting outerwear pieces I’ve ever seen. How could one wear such a thing? Well, you’ve got to think recklessly, as though you couldn’t care less about combing your hair or even brushing your teeth. Better yet – Just throw the soap in the garbage will you!
This type of coat adds much needed glamour to your drab. That and your most viva glam sunglasses complemented with cowboy boots … or chucks. Actually, leather trimming on the coat adds sexy (as shown) while a cotton cut adds cool. But a coat like this is hard to come by; this devil-may-care style is best when done by top designers. Below are two versions made by Alexander Wang. If you can find them vintage – best of luck if you do – cherish it. It’s a classic look that’s been recycled throughout the `80s until now.
Betsey Johnson, Givenchy, Diana Vreeland, Rodarte
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, Trend, Trend Report, style on April 13, 2010 at 4:12 pm
What a powerful colour. For years, red has been regarded as the foundation of evil. But what’s overlooked is that red is our circulation. To wear red means life. It represents fearlessness and ambition. It is our confidence and reassurance.
Diana Vreeland, one of the most trailblazing editors of all time, spent hours roughing her cheeks, lips, nails – her whole house! She poured it on the streets and it was the trademark of her life. I’ve never come across a more prolific person who personified red as she did.
Designers such as Rodarte, Givenchy, and Betsey Johnson tantalize with splashes of red on the runway, but few used it completely. I understand - red is a brave move. But it’s one of the most timeless and feminine colours on the rainbow palette. It’s not as overt as pink, but not as masculine as blue. It’s extremely flattering on rich skin tones and it’s just the right kind of commander.
black, Carvela, Dr. Martens, Fendi, Givenchy, Kurt Geiger, leather, Mini Market, patent, Report signature
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, Heels, Shoes, Shopping, Trend, Trend Report, colour, designer, style, why don't you on April 6, 2010 at 4:20 pm
You can be a flirtatious lolita, or a sultry vixen. But why be one when there’s room for both? Since blossoming into an unofficial Givenchy princess, I’ve become a something of – a black maven. Forget colour, I know what’s best. Many people consider black to be safe, but it’s not. It’s gothic, absorbs heat, and it’s distant. Most of all, you have to find ways to make it interesting; a hard feat when your eyes are as black as a bat’s cave.
When wearing black, the shoes have to match. And I realize material is extremely important. Suede can be risky – it’s afraid of water and impossible to clean properly. Leather is good, but it can feel as heavy as it looks. I do however, like the idea of black lace shoes. Better yet, black lace with patent trimming. Or patent wedges – pay attention to those. That’s the ringer for me – patent. Oh yes, I love the idea of patent shoes matched with all black ready-to-wear attire.
So it’s a deal. When wearing black, keep it breezy. Free flowing wraps (oversized is best), leggings (no spandex - no shine), very light-weight denim, and loose fitting t-shirts. Dresses are good, especially if short. Long is good too. Actually, I’m thinking jersey. Jersey fabric is key. Try to find a catsuit if you can, throw a wrap over it, and add some black patent shoes. There you go, you’ve got it. I’ll even give you a head start if you need it.
Dr. Martens patent boots.
Kurt Geiger’s Carvela Sleaze Patent Lace-up Ankel Boot available at ASOS
Givenchy lace sandal with patent leather trim
Fendi Patent Logo boot
Report Signature ankle boot
Mini Market patent leather wedges
Bassike, FarFetch, Givenchy, Luisaviaroma, Net-A-Porter, Rick Owens
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, Shoes, Shopping, designer on April 2, 2010 at 6:13 pm
balenciaga, Fall/Winter 2010, Givenchy, Goth, Gothic, Hubert de Givenchy, muse, Nicolas Ghesquière, Riccardo Tisci
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, Icon, In the Know, Legend, colour, culture, designer on April 2, 2010 at 5:04 pm
It took a long time for me to realize this; Riccardo Tisci is my favorite designer of all time. He is to Givenchy what Nicolas Ghesquière is to Balenciaga – a second skin.
I adore his collections, yet they delve into the painful side of ugliness. But at the same time, they’re strikingly beautiful; angelic yet cold. Ultimately, even if there’s a piece you don’t like, it’s complemented with intricate detailing. It’s layered with Tisci’s passion, and that’s what makes Givenchy so captivating.
The black monochromatic palette was splattered in blood. Men wore skirts and women wore lace. This collection reminds me of the most sinister parts of gothic lifestyle. Those alley ways and night clubs where the people you’re most afraid of congregate. But at the same time, it’s the Goths we draw the most inspiration from. They’re muses to designers like Tisci, and they wear their clothes with intensity, much like Tisci’s designs.
I’m not in awe with this man, I’m inspired by him. As Tisci has found a home in Hubert de Givenchy’s fashion house, I have found a mentor in him.
Alexander McQueen, Archangels, collections, egypt, Fall/Winter 2010, Jean-Paul Gaultier, John Galliano, karl lagerfeld, Red Sea
In British, Collection, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, Icon, Legend on March 24, 2010 at 8:04 pm
Alexander McQueen’s untimely death brought about two realities: he was the most passionate designer of the millenia, and that he was possibly the last designer standing – after Karl, Jean-Paul, and the equalling talented John - to carry a fashion empire on his back. Tears and billowing won’t do; all we have is memories. And even if his house is proceeded by someone new, McQueen’s hands, those eyes, that brain - is irreplaceable.
McQueen saw fashion through a world all his own; that’s what makes his collections so special. Many thought he was crazy – of course he was, how could a genius be normal? How could someone create a dress out of tulle and golden feathers with tiny gold embellishments at the hemlines and be average? How could someone juxtapose digital-print images of Archangels and “Bosch demons” with thigh-high leather boots? To be sane is but an insult, for, true talent and originality can only be found in the midst of madness.
McQueen was a British national – a badge he clutched to the very end – and that has everything to do with it. He was schooled in the early depths of the culture from its medieval history to its current punk tradition. And it’s all jumbled into a continuous theme just-so. He stayed on the soil and never relocated somewhere more topical or modern. The Alexander McQueen brand was British through and through. And the world gravitated to him because of his unyielding sense of identity.
Had McQueen been alive, the presentation of his final women’s collection would have been as theatrical as his mind; dramatic, fresh, and as blue as the red sea of Egypt.
Vogue, Veruschka, Diana Vreeland, Paulina Porizkova, Cindy Crawford, Michael Gross, Dynel, Richard Avedon, Peter Beard
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, Icon, London, Rouse, culture, model on March 22, 2010 at 3:46 am
Art. Veruschka. This supermodel of the `60s is most remembered as the girl who transformed into a human canvass. She had a short but memorable fashion career. She was long, and blonde, and she saved Vogue. How many covers did she do… 10, maybe 12? She and Mrs. Vreeland pushed both magazine, and modeling industry during a time when beehives and pearls were still on the fashion plate.
Men and women crooned over Paulina Porizkova’s body. Cindy Crawford’s titillations became a world-wide brand, but if it weren’t for Veruschka, I doubt sexuality could have merged with high-fashion like this. In Michael Gross’ book Model, she said she forged her career when nobody wanted to work with her. She wore all black to go-sees, and facilitated the creativity of her photo shoots. What I remember most, was that she was wrapped in miles and miles of Dynel. She swam in it. The blonde synthetic hair became her signature. It doesn’t take rocket science, she worked with the top of fashion lot. Richard Avedon, Peter Beard. At the very top she earned 10,000 a day and appeared in the Michelangelo Antonioni’s Blow Up. But I couldn’t help but feel that even though she was the most memorable model of her time, she was also the most underrated.
When her flame started to fade, she camouflaged into stones. She camoflaged into swaps. She camouflaged into everything. She became art, and art became her. Shes allowed herself to age. She has wrinkles, but she’s still graceful. That never really goes away.
1966, Andy Warhol, David McCabe, Detroit, Donyale Luna, Factory, Federico Fellini, Harper's Bazaar, London, Mia Farrow, Michigan, Model of the Year, Otto Preminger, Playboy, Queen Nefertiti, Rome, Salvador Dali, Satyricon, Skidoo, Thames, The Luna Year, Time Magazine, Twiggy, Vogue
In Fashion, Good Look, Hidden Gem, Icon, Legend, New York, Oddly Unique, culture, history, model on March 22, 2010 at 1:07 am
Donyale Luna’s best asset was her body. Endless, lanky and hovering at 5″ 10 1/2 (she was exaggerated to be 6″2) with looks beyond the small-time Michigan, Detroit, photographer David McCabe caught her leaving an audition and snatched her up. Heading to New York to model, the Big Apple was the scene to thrust her into supermodeldom, but it also destroyed her spirit and ultimately took her life.
Adorning blue, green, violet and purple contacts with five different wigs – some of them blond, her groovy attitude towards her ethnicity gave many the impression that she was insecure about her blackness. It was noted that the freckle-faced beauty was half-mexican. Who knows! But imagine going for a breakfast in a London restaurant with Mia Farrow at 5Am and being ask to leave for no apparent reason. Let alone being referred to as a “pretty negro model” her whole life. Donyale was a young, black girl in an overzelous modeling world. You know, it’s hard to believe Donyale was trying to break any moulds, though. To me, she was just the embodiment of the glamour-puss she always wanted to be. As Donyale once said, “They saw me as something different but I’m sure it has nothing to do with my colour. I never think of myself as a brown-skin girl.”
In the infamous 1966 article by Time titled ”The Luna Year,” the magazine said that “for she is not really beautiful; but like her namesake, the moon, she is different in every phase, yet always recognizably the same and herself.” But I beg to differ. Salvador Dali referred to her as the “reincarnation of Queen Nefertiti” and gracing the cover of Vogue,and Britain’s Queen (now Harper’s Bazaar), it was clear cheek bones and elongated neckline – better yet – her whole existence was that of a beautiful creature. I’d like to think of her as the black Twiggy - like a chameleon and immensely versatile. The way she slithered and bended looked effortless.
Donyale was apart of Warhol’s Factory, she won Vogue’s Model of the Year (`66), she dated – and married – cool artsy guys. But when the pit of New York scene’s started to surface, she fled to the Europe’s safer haven.
At a rate of 60 an hour, she kept a London apartment looking over the
Thames, but professed that ” I make about a thousand dollars a week but often there are a couple of days at the end of the week when I find myself broke again.” And she landed some bit parts in French films directed by
Otto Preminger (Skidoo) and
Federico Fellini (Satyricon). Close to the end, she also posed for
Playboy (1975). I wonder if it had more to do with needing the money than the glamorous title.
Around 1979, feeling sick, she entered a Rome clinic on a Tuesday and died on a Thursday. Some say it was an accidental drug overdose. Again, who knows. She was 33. “She didn’t like to pay her bills,” claimed a fellow black model. Who does? I don’t think that was the whole of it. It was more like life didn’t like what she had become.
Bloomingdales, Ford Europe, Hermes, Red NYC, Wendell Lissimore
In Fashion on March 12, 2010 at 3:07 pm
Wendell, Wendell, Wendell… boy oh boy. Kiss-him-more
He’s another one of those guys that make me embarrassed. In my case, when I find a guy attractive, I’m not particularly a nice gal – not mean, just kinda… professional.
Despite the fact that I’m old enough to be his big sister (thank god), he’s mature beyond his 24 years (I assume by the time of this post) hustling a modelling job and a son. I’ll say one thing, he’s got more responsibilities than moi.
But what’s gorgeous about this fella is his cultivation. Army brat kids, or kids born to parents in the army can be fortunate. In the sense, that they become temporary expatriates to the world. In this lad’s case, he lived in Germany. Which means he was probably able to stay quite level-headed when his modelling career started to take off.
Represented by Red Models in NYC and Ford Europe, Monsieur Lissimore has done Lookbooks for Hermes, and commercial work for department stores including Bloomingdales and campaigns for Stone Island. He has hit up the gay market too, and I’m not surprised. Quite frankly, Monsieur Lissimore’s got the appeal for all ends of the spectrum.
I’m concerned, though. I see he’s done some editorial for 2009, but since his peak in 2008, he’s semi-M.I.A. I sure hope not, because he breaks the stereotype of token black guys that enter the modelling scene. Meaning, there are girls that just want to see a sexy black guy; doesn’t have to be mixed with chinese or looking like he got plucked out the jungle – just a sexy black guy that you may actually see your self associated with at some point in your life.
Your around the way boy. I’ll be hitting up the fashion weeks this year, and I’ll expect to be seeing him on some runways.
balenciaga, Elle, Gloria Coelho, Nicolas Ghesquière, NY Mag, Paulo Coelho, Pedro Lourenço, Reinaldo Lourenço
In Collection, Fashion, Fashion Heat, In the Know, One to Watch, designer on March 11, 2010 at 5:51 pm
So this is the part when I bite my tongue in excitement. Just when I’m lacking inspiration, something – in this case, someone – turns my life around and proves to me that faith work wonders.
Pedro Lourenço, a 19-year-old Brazilian native’s Paris debut stopped me dead in my tracks. Rummaging through NY Mag’s fashion section, as I zoomed in on the first look, I was locked. I cared not to see anyone else. As google would have it, this kid is fresh. Not only when it comes to his style, but also in his place in the fashion scene.
Why is it when I look at him I see references of Monsieur Nicolas Ghesquière? Could it be that as fairytales would have it, he’ll be scooped up by a major fashion houses strengthening a fashion empire based soley artistic talent?
Of course his collection could use a lot of work, but at 19, so what? His well-groomed up bringing, and his historical knowledge of fashion makes this young lad something of a prodigy. He’s not just about making “hot” clothes” there’s a cultural significance in his concepts. I wouldn’t be surprised if he can speak about five languages, well I mean, maybe so, considering that he was born into an atelier thanks to his parents Gloria Coelho and Reinaldo Lourenço. I’m also pretty sure that his bloodline runs through that of the legendary Novelist Paulo Coelho, if you pay close attention, there’s a bit of a “dreamy nightmare” in Pedro’s collection. An army, of some sort.
Amber Rose, Benetton, chanel, Daphne Guinness, Diane von Furstenberg, Dior, Lady GAGA, Nathan Jenden, rihanna
In Collection, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, Hidden Gem, Icon, designer, style on March 3, 2010 at 8:24 pm
After nine heartfelt years, DVF’s Nathan Jenden stepped down from the coveted throne as Creative Director to set his sights on cultivating his own namesake. DVF’s influence runs rampant throughout his eponymous collection, and he’s one of the few designers who continues to strut his catwalk with women of colour (he represents Benetton tribe to the fullest).
I’m new to Jenden’s empire; but the most obvious thing to me is his understated fame. Diane Von Furstenberg’s fashion line never had the shock value as Chanel or Dior, but it managed to build a solid following and was always in the top ten of the world’s most celebrated fashion brands. Reason being was the safety net factor; it didn’t step outside any boundaries, but women over the fresh-faced age could always ‘come home to DVF’. Jenden’s a young guy, though. And through his collection he experimented with being – perhaps – what he wished DVF would be. But being a talented designer for a bigger brand means following the protocol for what that brand stands for.
I see what could be a cry for Lady Gaga and Rihanna in his current collection. Heck, I see this collection as a calling to any girl who likes to be equated with ‘fierce’ Amber Rose, Daphne Guinness, whoever. My eagerness is to see if he breaks the ceiling with this collection. It’s possible – we’ll see.
H&M, Mango, Moises de la Renta, Oscar De La Renta, Stella McCartney, The Hills
In Collection, Fashion, Men, Shopping, affordable, designer, steal, style on March 2, 2010 at 10:33 pm
It’s one thing to be a talented black man, but a talented black who’s ‘heir’ to the throne of a revered couturier? To call life a colorful soirée of dainty-ism is probably an understatemet. But despite his rising fashion icon success, he comes across as a down-to-earth guy. After reading this, he’d probably roll his eyes. He’s probably not really interested in being perceived as a ‘black man in fashion’ anymore than just a fashion man.
But we already know fashion’s limited circle of authentically talented black professionals, and it doesn’t take even the common-est commoner to understand that the fashion world can be an air-headed balloon at least 99.9 % of the time. But Monsieur de la Renta’s adding his flair, and it’s all worth noting.
I’m not really a fast-fashion type of gal, okay – well, maybe I am. But you know, special collabs or not, buying H&M just because Stella McCartney spiced it up can’t really get me on the wagon. Unless of course, there’s some seriously breath-taking essentials in the collection. Spain-based ‘fast-fashion’ line Mango is not on my list, period. Never has been and may very well never be. However, what I can appreciate is that it produced a collaboration that introduced me to this fashionisto in the making. Set aside that he debuted his own last line, MDLR last year, there’s a bigger picture at hand.
What I’m seeing is a new and refreshing school of fashion leaders. He’s been on the radar of fashion bibles, but now, he’s on his way to become an established and accessible name to kids outside The Hills crowd. And that’s kind of a big deal.
So here it is folks, here’s a glimpse of some limited edition T-Shirts, de la Renta has designed for Mango. Kinda cute, no?
France, Prada
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Shopping, culture, designer, style on March 1, 2010 at 7:21 pm
The scent of Lavender streams through my senses as I open my eyes. Hmm – must be the mug with the tea bag from last night. I squint as I look to the left; a fresh blue sky with droplets of orange nestles beside my window Payne. I feel warmth. The fierce feline and my companion, Bernadette is curled up on the pillow beside me, her purrs are comforting. I can’t get out of bet just yet, but as I reminisce about last night, my heart squirms with excitement.
Snowflakes swirled from the sky and filled the streets like confetti. But the weather didn’t stop me, of course not! It was my day, and it was once in a lifetime. My fairy godmother granted me one wish: pick a store, any store. You have one outfit, from head-to-toe. Guessing from the subject line, I’m sure you can tell who I chose.
The Prada store stretched for miles. As I looked around, I was greeted by a young fashionista, not a stitch of make-up but a high impact fashion statement. She wore black velvet peep-toe booties, and a navy-blue jumper. “Hi! Welcome to Prada” her voice relaxed yet inviting. I felt at home.
Two Hours Later
As I left the store, I felt empowered with my Prada bags in check. It felt like eyes were all on me, and they were. I don’t know where I’m going tomorrow, but I know I’ve got to do this.
And tomorrow is today. I pulled each Prada box out of each Prada bag (it all means that much to me). The knots caught up in my stomach, my legs quivered. For one day, I was a Queen – a Prada Queen. And I think I even got a text message, from some guy that looks like a french model. Maybe I was in France? Who knows…
Acne, Alexander Wang, Barker Black, Isabel Marant, Maison Martin Margiela, Ray-Ban, Vionnet
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, Heels, In the Know, Shopping, designer, handbags on March 1, 2010 at 4:00 am
Baptiste Giabiconi, Male Model
In France, Men, Rouse, model, sex symbol, sexy on March 1, 2010 at 2:47 am
I’d be Baptiste Giabiconi. This boy is a boss.
I think he’s my latest obsession – despite the fact he’s barely legal. Vingt ans? Yeah, BARELY legal. I was actually kinda scared to make an entry on my blog.
I made a quick ode to Baptiste on my facebook and was told by my guy friends (You know he likes dudes, right?)
First of all, since when did saying someone’s attractive mean wanting to actually get him? (Some guys are so jealous). And even if he is, so what? If you ask me, I just think he’s comfortable with his sexuality.
But anyway, clearly, Baptiste can get it. He can get anything he wants. And he is getting it; by the looks of things, he’s enjoying it.
There’s only ONE problem… he smokes. I mean, the smoking thing’s sexy in pictures, but it’s not the kind of thing I can conceptualize in person. Because then I envision what all that smoking will manifest in 20 years.
But what can I say? Baptiste Giabiconi… C’est magnifique.
2010/2011, Benjamin Kirchhoff, Edward Meadham, Erdem, London Fashion Week, matthew williamson, Meadham Kirchoff
In Collection, London, RTW, UK, designer, dress on March 1, 2010 at 2:25 am
I’ve been inexcusably absent from my blog. I can’t pinpoint the exact reason, not like I’ve been on vacation or anything. Could be a bout of searching… for inspiration. But I knew I had to get back on this so here I am.
I was in Toronto during London’s inspiring fashion week mash-up, but unless it pertained to my favorites, quite frankly, it didn’t really matter. But there was something missing this year, I’m not sure what designers are going through, but the animation they wove into their previous collections are missing.
I was shocked with the design-duo Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff. It’s not that the collection was bad, but it reminded me of Matthew Williamson‘s worldly concepts. It’s not a bad thing, not at all. They’ve still got the gothic edge, but this time it’s incorporated with florals and I just don’t feel this was their best. Then again, maybe that’s okay because we all have bad days.
The thing with this collection is it’s a fall back. When Erdem, and Matthew Williamson does florals and feminine drapes there’s an undeniable fierceness to it. And it’s disappointing because I know Meadham Kirchoff can do so much better.
I hope my guys bring it back next time around, though. You know what I mean.
Alexander McQueen, Anderson & Sheppard, central saint martins, Daphne Guinness, Gieves & Hawkes, houndstooth, isabella blow, Lady GAGA, plaid, Savile Row, scots
In Collection, Fashion, I heart, Icon, Legend, London, News, UK, death, designer on February 12, 2010 at 1:16 am
Alexander McQueen‘s death today is not only a shock, it’s a cruel reality of how fickle life can be. A young boy with a dream, Lee Alexander McQueen dropped out of school at 16 and took an apprentice position at Savile Row‘s Anderson & Sheppard. GOD recognized this man’s gift; he went on to work for Gieves & Hawkes then worked in Japan and Italy. Very much an inspiration of the `90s, he went attended Central Saint Martins and set up his label in East London – the place all cool people go.
McQueen’s built a relationship with some of the most prolific people in fashion, Isabella Blow being one of them. But his talent spoke for itself. He was the epiphany of innovation; his collections were breathless. Even if you didn’t know fashion, you were easily taken away by cinematic creations. What’s most important was that he stayed true to Britain; he was utterly fierce houndstooth and scots plaid, no designer, no matter the tenure could match his devotion to British tradition.
For his Spring/summer 2010 collection, he spearheaded a trend: he streamed his entire show online. The collection was his most dramatic yet, with those infamous hoofs immediately worn by the likes of Daphne Guinness and Lady Gaga.
His stores are now being closed, he’s irreplaceable. He was able to touch people through his craft, and in such a saturated, ephemeral industry, this is very, very difficult to do.
He will truly be missed. RIP, Alexander McQueen.
Paris, UK, Berlin, Henrik Vibskov, Germany, MoMA, Diane Pernet, Graphic Works, Pool Gallery
In Engage, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, Icon, In the Know, News, designer on February 4, 2010 at 11:09 pm
Those lucky little bumble bees. As I skimmed through Diane Pernet’s blog, I was suddenly overcome with sadness. Why? Well, because one of my favourite fashion designers, Henrik Vibskov, who’s also a visual artist and musician, is having a solo exhibition of graphics works at the Berlin-based Pool Gallery. He’s nowhere to be found in Canada. So while fans closer to home base get to revel in the gorgeousness up close, I have the luxury of being stuck in this cold, uneventful city. I suppose that’s part of the reason I wanted to move to the UK in the first place; I was ecstatic with the idea of the accessibility in Europe. However, when I lived there, it’s not like I took advantage anyway. But I digress.
How in the world did HV become my favourite – I’m not sure. I’ve never owned nor touched a HV piece as I have with my other favourites. But I’m in love with his collection, therefore, I’m in love with him.
I’ve always been interested in the relationship between art and fashion. So it does intrigue me when people such as HV are able to interconnect the two.
One of my goals is to attend his collections in Paris; and see one of his solo exhibitions. And she’s shown at many places, including the MoMA. I’m also obligated to see one of his music shows, but I’m guessing everything aside from fashion is one-off. Considering that he intends to create an ‘all-inclusive Henrik Vibskov experience’ I could be missing out, maybe he’s got one hell of a festive happening tomorrow night.
Who: Henrik Vibskov
What: Graphic Wors; a solo exhibition
When: Vernissage: 5 February 2010 19-23h
Exhibition: 6 February – 6 March 2010
Where: Pool Gallery
Tucholskystraße 38 / Ecke Auguststraße
10117 Berlin Mitte, Germany
For more information, please contact: info@pool-gallery.com.
Ann Demeulemeester, gareth pugh, Maison Martin Margiela, Rad Hourani, spring/summer 2010, valentino, Valentino Pre-Fall 2010
In Collection, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, I heart, Icon, In the Know, News, Rouse, Trend, Trend Report, designer, style on January 29, 2010 at 7:59 pm
Look 1: Valentino‘s Pre-Fall 2010 collection. Quite impressive. Definitely a different perspective from the traditional ballroom gowns it used to be. The bows and ruffles is being done quite a bit this season. But while that’s great for a line trying to go with the flow, it’s taking away from what made this iconic brand what it is in the first place.
Look 2: Maison Martin Margiela’s spring/summer 2010 collection. Breath taking. As always, MMM’s spring/summer 2010 collection is always innovative. A definite tone down from it’s 2009 glitter, but the cascading embellishment and use of fabrics and unconventional elements puts the line at the top of the ranks.
Look 3: Ann Demeulemeester‘s spring/summer 2010. Goth-punk influenced. A hot trend for 2010, but is it being over done? Considering I’m a major fan of Rad Hourani and Gareth Pugh, I’m quite happy that fashion’s embracing a darker tone.
balenciaga, Browns Fashion, Alexander McQueen, Net-A-Porter, Balmain, Givenchy, Current/Elliott, Lara Bohinc
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, I heart, Rouse, Shopping, Trend, designer, sexy, splurge, style, why don't you on January 29, 2010 at 7:36 pm
Ciara, Fall 2009, Givenchy, glitter, harem pant, muse, Riccardo Tisci
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, Trend, culture, designer on January 29, 2010 at 6:45 pm
There’s a certain demographic that’s been giving Ciara’s fashion fix a lot of flack lately. Perhaps because she’s graduated from the princess of crunk she used to be. Her model-esque beauty is certainly not her fault; neither is that killer body. She’s the quintessential designer’s muse: sultry, elongated and ridiculously elegant.
There’s been a certain trend I’ve been eyeing; glitter harem pants, and Ciara rocked this trend from Givenchy’s Fall 2009 couture collection.
If there’s any correct way to wear such a glamorous trend, then learn from fashion’s prince – Riccardo Tisci.
The combination is – in my mind – a match made in heaven.
Alexander McQueen, Christian Siriano, H&M, Nitrolicious, Payless, Shoes
In Collection, Shoes, Shopping, Trend, affordable, designer on January 28, 2010 at 5:21 pm
If you’ve been going gaga over Alexander McQueen’s hoofs, then you’ll probably love the next best thing: Christian Siriano’s Payless collection. And why not? Every girl needs a taste in luxury sometimes.
The curvy, sexy shoe comes in three colourways available for $79.99 (USD). My preference would be the aqua-coloured pump. However, as much as I’m down with fast fashion, I do have a qualm.
I love shoes (as does every woman, right?). But do I love Payless? Sure I did – back in the day. But think about the quality reality of Payless: low-grade leather which leads to smelly feet, and poor construction which means if you’re lucky you’ll get a good three months out of it. Honestly, I don’t believe in spending more than $30.00 on a Payless shoe – limited edition or not – and I certainly think that if it’s not inked with a specialty shoe store, even frickin’ H&M (which is not a shoe store but is the hotness for fast-fashion), then it’s not something to swoon over.
I could be wrong. I’ve never invested in a Christian Siriano before nor have I heard of him prior to Nitrolicious, so, this may be worth while. And I’m sure girls will lining outside a Payless based off the strength of visual aesthetic alone, anyway.
Agentur V, estern europe, H&M, Henrik Vibskov, Maja Brix, spring/summer 2010, womenswear
In Collection, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, In the Know, RTW, Trend, designer on January 28, 2010 at 4:52 pm
When Henrik Vibskov’s Maja Brix works her magic for the womenswear division, I’ve got to say – I’m practically drooling. It’s a shame because I don’t feel it’s getting the accolades it truly deserves. I’ve looked far and wide for the womenswear spring/summer 2010 lookbook but man, thanks to the Berlin-based Agentur V, I was able to peep some greatness from one of the coolest brands I’ve come across so far.
This season doesn’t stray too far from the usual loose draping and colour contour concepts– something Henrik’s known for. And while I’m not really a fan of shoulder pads or harem pants, when Maja does it, it’s got an authentic vibe that makes it fun. I mean, the impression I get is they’re having fun with it anyway, which is what makes the brand a fav to begin with.
The problem with stagnancy though, is if the designs are consistent, it gets boring. Or, if they’re trying too hard to ”grow” they kinda end up taking from other designers and loosing distinction. I find Eastern European designers more interesting – a lot harder to find mind you – but not as superficial as their western counterparts. And I hope that as Henrik’s womenswear division blossoms, it becomes a leader to a younger generation of fashion mavens. In other words, building a distinction between itself and an H&M rip off.
Alexander McQueen, Alexandra Groover, Blow PR, central saint martins, FarFetch.com, Girl About Town, London Fashion Week, MAC Cosmetics, Rhode Island School of Design, Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Zandra Rhodes
In Fashion on January 27, 2010 at 8:17 pm
UK-based Alexandra Groover’s spring/summer 2010 collection reminds me of those indie east-side fashion boutiques. You know, at first glance, the pieces are a bit intimidating, but when pulled off the hanger, they’re fresh, and brutally original.
It’s always nice to break away from the norm with these for-the-people collections, but their authenticity and made to order strategy mean they’re not for-the-people prices.
The California native got her papers from Central St. Martins and Rhode Island School of Design before working under Alexander McQueen and the infamous Zandra Rhodes. Her line, seperated in two – grey and black labels– and is available to order via her online boutique and farfetch.com. Her s/s 2010 collection also made its début at London Fashion Week and she’s been noted as one to watch by Vauxhall Fashion Scout.
Ms. Groover’s got some great representation (Blow handles her pr), but it looks like a lot of the clout she has obtained due to her own hard work. Her line suits UK’s ambiance and to call her line architectural is a bit passé; it’s gothic, new-age yet mysteriously sexy. Ms. Groover’s all-black concept of ruffled shoulders and tapered pants compliment the tastes of fashionista who can gloss it up with neatly coiffed hair and lips kissed in M-A-C’s “Girl About Town” fuchsia shade.
Mary Katrantzou, Michael Angel
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, RTW, designer, dress on January 26, 2010 at 5:09 pm
When I look at Australian-born, New York-based fashion designer Michael Angel’s collection, I can’t help but see the uncanny similarities between him and Mary Katrantzou. Obviously not every living detail, but the overall concept seems to derive from the core of similar mindsets.
Michael Angel’s power – when not playing with trompe l’oeil – is in how he contrasts fiery digital print with monochrome, minimalist designs. It’s hard out there right now, no doubt. But with a coming soon stockist (according to his website), yet constant mentions in all the last fashion magazines, when can I expect to walk into a fashion store and see some stock?
We all know that digital print is having an explosive moment in the fashion world, but can it be over played? One has to wonder. While Ms. Katrantzou’s the ‘it princess’, Angel’s been chugging along; he’s got a stacked press section on his site, and he’s even launched an e-online shop. I still don’t – for some reason – feel that he’s really got the true recognition he deserves. But I digress.
Lets see what’ll happen.
Argentina, balenciaga, Cheryl Cole, France, House of Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture Week, prêt-a-porter, Stéphane Rolland, West Indies
In Fashion on January 25, 2010 at 4:52 pm
The fashion world has a new star: former Balenciaga Creative Director Stéphane Rolland’s been on the radar for some time now. But it’s his recent soire gowns that adorned Cheryl Cole’s petite frame that has fashion lovers salvating.
The man of culture was born in France, lived in Argentina and the West Indies, and has been around for a minute. After his stint at Balenciaga, he launched his eponymous Prêt-à-Porter in 2004 then did some costume design before moving on to Haute Couture at the age of 30. Now, the label has become a full-fledged House of Stéphane Rolland. And we’ll have the chance to see his spring/summer 2010 collection at Paris Haute Couture this week.
Haute Couture is, without question, a gift to fashion. The metriculous attention to detail and construction brings about the faily tales that make young hopefuls love fashion so much. But we sure hope he’s made the right decidion during such troubling times.
Antonio Sabato Jr., Bruce Willis, Calvin Klein, Giorgio Armani, i-D, Male Model, Nancy Meyers, Sean O'Pry, Steven Seagal, VNY Model Management
In Beauty, Fashion Heat, Good Look, model, sex symbol, style on January 24, 2010 at 12:12 am
I’d be 20-year-old male model Sean O’Pry of VNY Model Management. I was flipping through an issue of i-D and POW! His editorial spread hit me like a boxing glove. His magnetic blue eyes and defined jaw line are the epitome of aesthetic perfection. While I wouldn’t call it a sin to look this good, his sinful sexiness has women and men transfixed.
As the highest paid male model in the business now, he’s donned campaigns for Calvin Klein ad Giorgio Armani. He’s opened catwalks in Milan and Paris, and has been in about just about every magazine that has room for human male mannequins. One can’t imagine what the teeny boppers are going through when they see him now.
Kind of reminds me of when I had a teenage crush on then model Antonio Sabato Jr. I used to print off images from the Internet and post them on my wall, heck, I even joined a fan club (until it started to become spam, I had no interest in every minute detail of his life as I thought). But it was such a joy to drool over a medium-well tenderloin (pun-intended) stake. Then he became B -movie actor.
Maybe O’Pry will be a B+ movie actor if he’s smart about it. You know, playing the sub-romantic lead along older list actresses in Nancy Meyers romantic-comedies. Just do me a favour honey, don’t try to become the next Steven Seagal, or even the next Bruce Willis, who was damn good at pumping action-injected films. Most of the time, when you’re not what those guys consider to be ‘real actors’ it all goes to shit from there.
spring/summer 2010, Beyonce, central saint martins, GWAR, Georgia Hardinge, Shakira, Hips Don't Lie, hips
In Collection, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, RTW, Shopping, Trend, Trend Report on January 22, 2010 at 10:54 pm
If there’s any trend worth paying attention to for 2010, it’s the rise of protruding hips. Ideal for lanky, androgynous types, a mini-dress with accentuated hips figments an hour-glass shape, drawing attention to pelvic thrusts guaranteed to reel men in like fish bait. And as you know, wide hips represent child-bearing abilities. Why else would Shakira profess that the ‘Hips Don’t Lie’?
Central Saint Martins graduate Georgia Hardinge diligently embellishes the hips for her spring/summer 2010 collection. For this I’m sure she’ll be well loved by girls dying to add some plump to the ‘stickness.’ But beware: if you’re already hippie, a la Beyoncé, then you might want steer clear of this look; you’ll end up looking like a sci-fi Gwar groupie – not cute.
Berlin, Christian Lacroix, Donna Karan, Fall 2010, Mercedes-Benz Berlin Fashion Week, Sam Frenzel
In Collection, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, In the Know, One to Watch, Trend, designer on January 22, 2010 at 7:49 pm
You always seem to think you know, but quite frankly, you don’t. One should always treat life as a continuous learning journey. Searching lead me to Sam Frenzel, a Berlin-based Fashion designer who launched his first solo show at Mercedes-Benz Berlin Fashion Week for Fall 2010. He’s been getting a lot of heat for the past couple of years, and his niche for meshing traditional with modern ranks him high in my books. Trends are futuristic for 2010, but there’s a serious`90s reference manifesting in the fashion world. His vision very much reminds me of Christian Lacroix, but with a more accessible tone.
Frenzel made it fun for fall 2010 playing with a candy-coated colour palette. However, I preferred his previous collection. He had a bit of a new wave Donna Karan thing with the architectural cuts and multi-layering. But then again, I guess I’m a bit intense. What wins me over is that once things are stripped down, he’s got some valuable separates. And he’s a star when he plays with the synched waist concept.
ASOS, Style Stacker, Australia
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, One to Watch, Shopping on January 22, 2010 at 7:12 pm
Whenever fashion gets loquacious it’s always nice to be brought back to reality with some simplicity. Australian-born and bred Style Stalker‘s a good fix for that…
Kind of like a mini ASOS and launched in 2008, the team behind Style Stalker has taken the e-tailing route turning their line into a full out brand. Very high-street, and minimalistic, it’s got the skin but not too much down packed; great it you want ‘sexy enough to pass as a groupie but I’ll sock you if you try thing’ look. With price ranges of between $60 to $200 (USD)and international shipping, it’s a good idea to get a bit of staples now before you end up on a waiting list due to popular demand.
Brazil, Amapô, Hint Mag, Lilian Pacce, Surface2Air, unisex
In Fashion, Good Look, In the Know, One to Watch, RTW, designer on January 22, 2010 at 6:20 pm
I was browsing relentlessly for Rio De Janeiro Fashion Week images and low and behold, I found something better. Courtesy of Lilian Pacce and noted through Hint Mag, I was astounded by the punk rock fashion funk brand Amapô that made a round at São Paulo Fashion Week F/W 2010. The unisex clothing line by Carolina Gold and Pitty Taliani launched in 2004 and has become a staple for crazy edgy, avant-garde concepts.
From what I understand, you can only get Amapô through their collaborations with Surface2Air in Brazil. They do have a website, though it’s been in development for a while now.
A Continuous Lean, GQ, Hypbeast, Lyle & Scott, Men's Style, Selectism, Style Salvage, The Fashionisto, Tom Ford, Vampire Weekend
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, In the Know, Men, One to Watch, blogger on January 21, 2010 at 3:58 pm
I’ve gotten a bit of feedback since starting this blog. The main thing being I should add men’s fashion too. I’ll be the first to admit that I can whip up a mean men’s critique. I’ve got a good eye, considering I was raised by a single fashion conscious father. But while I can add some meaty men’s fashion, why should I when there’s a collective of passionate peepers geared towards men’s interest? For those of you men who haven’t been paying attention, here’s a run down of the best of the lot. If you need some inspiration, please, look no further.
GQ
Anyone, and I mean ANYone who wants to know about fine men’s tailoring and grooming goes to GQ.com. This site is the business. Even I go on there, but then again, I aim to know about fashion writ-large. They also have typical content like women, profiles and current events. It may seem a bit debonair at times, but every man can use some cultivation no matter how nonchalant he may be.
The Fashionisto
This blog is a personal favorite. It’s very editorial and dramatic at times, but if you want to know what’s happening in men’s fashion it’s really all there. If you’re looking for a bit of lifestyle, you’re not going to get that here, but it’s a great reference site for the latest on designers, runway shows, male model of the month and the like – and yes, even if you’re a hetero man it’s okay to get the skinny on a male muse.
Selectism
I’d probably get in trouble for saying this, but I actually think Selectism is better than GQ. It’s a service site; bang on for the latest releases and where to buy. If I’m looking for Tom Ford’s latest drop or the lesser known Lyle & Scott, they’ve already got it posted with lookbooks and availability. What more could you ask for?
Style Salvage
This site’s more refined than The Fashionisto, ediger than GQ, but more in-depth than Selectism. It’s for men that have a genuine interest in men’s fashion and what that world has to offer. He’s great for interviews and giving you a more personalized look at the fashion world.
A Continuous Lean
A Continuous Lean is a very wordy blog – not for people that want quick references. While I won’t rubbish it by labeling it a smart man’s style guide, it’s more of a lifestyle blog than anything. It’s very American suburbia, very Vampire Weekend. Ultimately, you will have to be bit die hard to get into what he’s about, but he’s good at what he does.
Hypebeast
This site’s the most ‘street’ of the bunch, but they’re so big on the map right now that everyone’s literally trying to get on. Ranked in the top five fashion sites on the Internet, it’s a strong source for men’s fashion. What’s also really cool is that they’ll link you to online stores you’ve never even heard of – they dive in really deep. Hypbeast’s a tough pill if you prefer the aforementioned sites, but if you’re looking for a cool pair of sneakers, a really interesting t-shirt, or something alternative, then Hypebeast is your guy.
Police, Adjective, Film, Corneliu Porumboiu, Dragos Bucur, Romania, post-communism, David Lynch
In Film, One to Watch on January 21, 2010 at 2:16 am
And speaking of adjectives, considering its been a while since I’ve posted any entertainment, I wanted mention the highly stylized Romanian film Police, Adjective.
I’ve read countless of perplexing reviews by film critics whipping out complex linguistics to describe a simple story. Sure, it’s great that the film centres around words and their dual meanings, but why use “solipsism” when talking about a scene? Are you trying to discombobulate (confuse) me into seeing – or not seeing – the film? For the record, I have not seen the film yet, but if it’s what I think it is, then it’s one of those feature lengths that are short of talking but high on suspense. But not the kind of suspense you’d expect.
I’ve been a hardcore foreign film fan since I was little. Sure, subtitles always helped, but the settings and body language were driving forces behind the plot. The intensity in the actor’s eyes, the shrivel of the mouth, the decadent village setting, that stone house, forest, wherever the characters resided. Even when they were comedies, there was something haunting about the ambiance. The only North American films I ever remember having somewhat of that effect were David Lynch ones.
Police, Adjective centers around a police guy named Cristi living an ordinary life in a post-communist Romanian town. He’s been assigned the mundane task of cracking down on a high-school joint smoker and his supplier. But Cristi doesn’t want to bust the kid because it doesn’t seem necessary, besides, with Romania’s newly implemented democracy, the laws will be like the rest of western Europe, anyway. But he can’t not do his job, because he’s apart of a new society still haunted by a regimented, old school system. What’s interesting is Cristi’s fascination for words, and their semantics (meaning) juxtaposed (placed side-by-side) with the moral dilemma behind this supposed situation.
Y’know, something damn well tells me you don’t have to live in post-communist countries to understand the point of this film. Those of us stuck in the middle (born in the late `70s to mid-`80s) to immigrant, or hard pressing families in particular are battling this semi-oppresed state of existence; condescending grandparents, ruthless parents, relatives and co-workers, even neighbours. Why else are so many people crying about the state of affairs we live in today?
I’ll write a personal review once I’ve finally seen the film. Stay tuned…
Brazil, Fashion, Latin America, Oskar Metsavaht, Osklen, Style.com
In Collection, Fabric, Fashion, Good Look, RTW, Trend, Wish List, designer, style on January 21, 2010 at 1:05 am
I’m inspired by Osklen’s seemingly effortless boho grub collections. And take chic out the equation – that’s such a lame adjective. Admittedly, I’m envious of more fortunate women who have the luxury of sporting the ‘fashion bum’ look without shopping ‘bum’ prices. But until that day comes, the second-hand route has made its way comfortably into my lifestyle, which adds a bit of compromise to how fresh some of my staples appear at times.
The aesthetics behind Osklen is a raggedy-ann concept with a polished finish. You can wear a complete outfit that’s easily mistaken for a thrift-find at first glance, but closer inspection reveals soft leathers, organic cottons and intricate drapes. I would love to wear a $2500 outfit constructed to look like its been lying around in the closet for a couple of years, if not longer. And I’m noticing that Latin Americans seem to be the predecessors of this type of fashion statement.
Who knows, maybe I’m living on the wrong side of the planet. As much as I love high fashion, I’m also a major fan of comfort, and that’s what Osklen has represented since its 1982 inception. “All my work is about duality. I juxtapose symbolic, textural, conceptual, and visual opposites,” creative director Oskar Metsavaht recently told Style.com. Lets not complicate things now,Oskar. Simply put; Osklen is an extremely comfortable collection of loosely draped cuts done with meticulious attention to detail.
Thakoon, Nina Ricci, Azzedine Alaia, Michelle Obama, Christian Lacroix, Roberta Furlanetto, baroque, Ungaro, prêt-a-porter
In Collection, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, In the Know, Italy, One to Watch, RTW, Trend, designer, dress on January 14, 2010 at 4:51 pm
Just imagine: you’re an Italian-based textile designer with a love for the school of baroque art. So much so, you create a fashion label that plays on the romanticism of the era, and its influence runs rampant throughout your handmade collection. While I’m not sure that this was Roberta Furlanetto’s motif, it would add character to the storyboard I’m sure.
What’s quite interesting, I must say, is who Furlanetto worked with before launching her eponymous prêt-a-porter collection in 2007. She has handmade textiles for body-con king Azzedine Alaïa, collaborated with Christian Lacroix , Nina Ricci and Ungaro. Her work with the house of Dior seems to be most prevalent, particularly with her shoe collection.
Furlanetto’s spring/summer 2010 lookbook swims in organza and seashell cuts drenched in a coral, vermillion red and silver colour palette.
The only thing I wish was that she put her own spin on that Thakoon-Michelle Obama inspired Sea Anemone dress; Imuch prefer the black sculpture dress. It’s the same concept, just shorter, and presents a fresher outlook on a concept that was done into oblivion. Otherwise I can’t complain, only in heaven could I be a muse for such a fine clothier.
Brixton, Hackney, spring/summer 2010, Tina Kalivas, tribal print
In Collection, Fashion Heat, Good Look, London, Trend, designer on January 14, 2010 at 2:11 am
A few months back I pitched a tribal print story to a certain Canuk fash editor with blank response – maybe that’s why. But part of my few assumptions is that it’s not mainstream enough, or as safe as, say – the fluttering floral print. Or just maybe, unlike the space-age shoulder pad, the tribal print’s bold concept is restricted to a certain under 30ish, long and lanky type. Regardless, leave it to cool fashion designers — or for better words, relatively unknowns— to dance in territories trend-conscious fashion lovers dare not to go, and quite frankly not give a rat’s… ass.
Australian-born Tina Kalivas has been at the helm of graphic print fashion concepts since her début at Australian Fashion Week in 2002. And throughout her tenure in the fashion business, teetering risqué grounds – as seen in her spring/summer 2010 collection – is something she does because, well, she’s good at it.
The collection, to me at least, is very reminiscent of a park filled with those stylish hipsters in east Hackney, or on the gritty streets south side Brixton (which makes sense seeing Kalivas is a Londoner these days), but the clothes don’t reference any political jargon. These ephemeral fashion staples are just that – flirty yet whimsical signatures.
I’ve always believed that everyone should have one unconventional piece of something in their wardrobe. If you’re very boyish girl, then a pair of heels; if you’re monochromatic, a bit of tribal print.
For quite some time I’ve also talked about owning a dashiki for home cleaning purposes, but maybe I’ll opt for a night out in a Tina Kalivas piece instead.
rihanna, chanel, Holly Fulton, Art Deco, Louis Vuitton, Susan Woo, eco-friendly, Derek Lam, Rachel Bilson
In Collection, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, New York, News, One to Watch, RTW, designer on January 12, 2010 at 11:14 pm
You know the world’s coming to an end when environmentally conscious fashion designers spring out of New York City’s melting pot. But that’s the case here with burgeoning RTW fashionista Susan Woo.
The 26 year-old’s concepts are not only eco-considerate, but based on her new-found fame, they’re also serious business. They’re a structural, body-con set of looks with a neavou-modern edge. When I see them my mind instantly drifts to Holly Fulton’s Art deco womenswear collection, but Woo’s has more of a downtown city girl element. Woo has also been the busy bee having tenured at Louis Vuitton, Derek Lam and Chanel.
Like most of the moment designers, Woo’s clothes are also coveted by the likes of Rihanna and Rachel Bilson. And though the price points are high ($345 – $1,250 USD) with a limited distribution (they’re available at Kaight in NYC and H. Lorenzo in LA), if you keep it tight, a Woo piece will become a classic emblem in modern fashion history.
Calvin Klei, Copper Union, Francisco Costa, Imitation of Christ, Julian Louie, NY Times Magazine, Prince of Fashion, Sarah Jessica Parker, spring/summer 2010, Tara Subkoff
In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, In the Know, One to Watch, RTW, Trend, designer on January 12, 2010 at 1:46 am
Fashion designer for the love of fashion, not commerce. That’s the best way to describe NYC-based craftsman Julian Louie. He’s been labeled as the new Prince of Fashion by NY Times Magazine — a seemingly well deserved title so far—and has already got the thumbs up by Sarah Jessica Parker. Not bad for someone who just kinda fell into the field.
Either way, he’s prodigious. After studying architecture at Cooper Union, Louie tried his hand at an internship under Tara Subkoff of Imitation of Christ (R.I.P IOC), then under Francisco Costa of Calvin Klein. As you can see, both terms were a success.
His début collection was a clear manifestation of his educational background, with lots of sharp edges and geometrical shapes. But upon his spring/summer 2010 collection, something changed – drastically. The looks are so much more fluid, placid; it’s as though his hand swerved into the art of fashion rather than the mathematics of it. The sunset and sand colourways along with silk fabric cuts are very reminiscent of Calvin Klein, but that’s okay, because Louie maintains his own voice with a signature shape here, and embellishment there.
He’s bang on with minimalistic drapes. He has a very Va-Va-Voom `90-esque influence in this collection, best exemplified through the tank tops and high-waisted trousers.
We have a winner.
autumn/winter 2009, GQ, Mandingo, spring/summer 2010, Telfar
In Fashion, Oddly Unique, designer on January 12, 2010 at 12:42 am
I’m sorry, but I can’t —I just can’t.
You know, what I love about fashion is that you’re free to be who or whatever your heart desires. And theoretically that’s a beautiful thing. No matter how absurdly eccentric, there’s room for everyone. And it will last for as long as you let it, seeing you can make the most of what’s given to you.
At first glimpse of the Autumn/Winter 2009 collection, NYC fashion label Telfar is bursting with potential. Suddenly, by the click of a mouse leading to the brand’s home page, I’m flabbergasted by what’s glaring at me.
Essentially, up until I don’t know when, Telfar was a funky, unisex, retro-futuristic collection with mildly satirical undertones. No biggie. Now, what can I say? I guess many will just roll their eyes at another limelight seeking designer. And while I’m not sure who in the hell Telfar Clemens is addressing, or what shock value he’s trying to induce, this, to me, is appalling. I’m sure if I call it like I see it I could run the risk of coming across as vexed; and I’m not so I won’t. I’ll let the images speak for themselves. But even when I tried to pick the collection apart, all I could see were patatoe sacks and quite frankly, it isn’t amusing nor is it funny (and they’re both one in the same). And I can’t be convinced that this is really some breathable, organic hand-made garments, either. I’d love to see more black designers in household fashoin magazines, but how can an editor at GQ take this seriously?
If you have something to say, just say it! There’s nothing wrong with using your craft to make a political point. But when I see what looks like a rendition of Mandingo as a spring/summer 2010 collection, I’m not going to say “Oh! That’s a lovely loungewear/pajama collection.” They say no press is bad press, but in this case, in a fickle economy amid a fashion rat race, there’s certain press you just can’t afford.
So I will say this: No excuses. Once again, don’t—just don’t.
Alexander Wang, balenciaga, Bill Blass, Gossip Girl, Joseph Altuzarra, Nicople Phelps, Phaidon, Prabal Gurung, Style.com, valentino, Yves Saint Laurent
In Collection, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, One to Watch, RTW, Rising Stars, designer, dress, style on January 8, 2010 at 5:10 pm
Nicole Phelps from Style.com said NYC-based fashion designer Prabal Gurung drapes a mean dress. I prefer to think Prabal Gurung’s mean, period. Joseph Altuzarra and Alexander Wang have been the talk of the town, but this mini fashion powerhouse in the making will throw the others in the trash bin – in friendly competition, of course. Thank god for his formal training as Creative Director for Bill Blass (before it tanked). If it wasn’t for that, maybe he wouldn’t have the momentum to go as far back in fashion as he has.
Gurung’s clearly the next Yves Saint Laurent. And he’s brought back the classic Balenciaga —even Valentino— with fierceness. It’s hard not to look at his collection without reminiscing over those big, thick phaidon fashion history books. The days classic designers paraded bows, red carpet ball gowns with intricate knots and bare shoulders. Sure he throws in the occasional cocktail Gossip Girl dress, the modern-day debutantes gotta shop too. But I think calling his collection “Clothes for a thinking-man’s sex symbol” a bit too deep. How about his confections simply being clothing for a sex-symbol; the glamazons of old Hollywood are rolling in their graves right about now. Even when he does a pantsuit, there’s a nonchalance about his craftsmanship. As though he’s just effortlessly bang on.
Looking at Gurung’s collection makes me feel safe; there is a well of hope amid the chaos.
GQ, Odyn Vovk, Paper Magazine, Mad Max, Ukraine
In Collection, Fashion, Good Look, Icon, Men, RTW, Trend, designer, dress on January 8, 2010 at 2:37 am
The fashion world has run amuck. It seems a lot of new designers believe — with all the will their hearts can muster — that throwing contorted bulks on a model sporting a suicidal expression standing against a bare backdrop is good fashion. No, it’s not, and people generally can see right through it. The emo thing was over before it began, and right about now that concept is the equivalent to a sedative- I’m numb. But you know, there’s something convincing when eastern European designers do it. Maybe it’s their deep-rooted history, but when I see the drama concocted into their designs to me, it’s authentic. Which leads me to Ukraine-born menswear designer Odyn Vovk.
I love the creepiness of his slit-sharp collections. This new designer’s concept is so masculine I can smell the testosterone through the computer. Yet, when he makes those very few womenswear staples, there’s nothing really androgynous about them. They are glamorous and form-fitting with cascading drapes. There’s no question that I would wear his women’s pieces. And when you take the clothes off the morbid models, the men’s pieces are totally hot. Maybe too hot for the average guy who still thinks the school boy cardigan look is the must do for the season.
Paper Magazine called the collection Post-nuclear-war chic. I’m not sure if this was self-imposed or not, but I don’t see anything nuclear about it. Unless Mad Max is post-nuclear war? But even then, Mad Max was your quintessential GQ prototype, you know. Most girls love a man with edge.
I’m excited to see Odyn Vovk’s development.
Altuzarra, Danielle Steele, Joseph Altuzarra, Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler, Vanessa Triana
In Fashion, France, Good Look, One to Watch, RTW, designer, sexy, style on January 7, 2010 at 9:35 pm
People are flipping their lids over Joseph Altuzarra lately. He’s a handsome, young Parisian-born fashion designer whose collection has industry leaders salivating like rabid animals. To call Joseph’s success a stroke of luck is a stretch of the imagination; the guy is hotter than a lava eruption. But is his collection anything more than a over-saturated hype? I see why he’s the man of the moment. It’s no walk in the park being a 25-year-old burgeoning designer in New York City — the capital of recession hell — in the middle of a crumbling economy. Particularly when veterans are diving head-first into the pits. However, Joseph’s got the mandate down packed. He has, for one, paid meticulous attention to detail honing his skills under fashion house Gods Marc Jacobs, Givenchy and Proenza Schouler. And, to garnish it off, he got himself a bare-faced, tussle-haired muse; the daughter of romance novelista Danielle Steele.
He’s a solider on the fashion front, and his second collection was an assemblage of free-flowing fringe, suede and key boho-chic references. When I took a good look at his overall delivering, what I’m most impressed with is that his shows were not a distracting extravaganza. Instead, he’s allowed people to fall in love with his confections for what they are. Maybe it’s true that the French just know how to do it.
Yes, I am a fan.
In Fashion, Good Look, Men, style on January 4, 2010 at 7:23 pm
I’d be Devonte Hynes aka Lightspeed Champion. There’s something tactile yet ephemeral about this guy’s style. I’ve seen dozens of metrosexual, indie-pop black boys try to look, dress and probably even act just like him. Yet, his style is completely interesting because not a lot of them actually have the je ne sais quoi to carry off his look like he does. Very Bad hair, in desperate need of a shave and some chicken wings, but immaculately imperfect. This lad couldn’t even approach me on the street, and he probably wouldn’t have the guts to, yet if I saw him from afar he would catch my eye. Maybe we can call it pretentiousness at its finest – I like it.
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