In January of 1984, American Vogue made a tribute to modernity. Sally Ride was the first woman to head into space, the Olympics presented more opportunities for women and the runways liberated our bodies with men’s clothing. Hair was also significantly shorter. Athletes and models were praised for being womanly rather than emaciated. The ideal of ‘men’s’ attire meant we preferred a looser, more serious wardrobe to that of the glitz and sex from the `70s.

Giorgio Armani made jackets in masculine cuts, while Donna Karan and Calvin Klein capitalized on minimalism.  Grey jersey dresses and wide-leg trousers meant we were tired of the fuss. Could this have been a much-needed women’s revolution?

Fast forward to 2010. Giorgio has launched Armani Privé, a sparkling collection of evening dresses and gowns, and Calvin Klein, while still true to minimalism, is severely feminine. Floral was ubiquitous by the likes of Dolce & Gabbana and Erdem. Viktor & Rolf bathed their collection in Tulle and Michael Kors laced his runway with furs. Models are now a size 0 or smaller. Hair is longer, braided and tossed to the side, or, freely flowing playful. If there is a hint of womanly, it’s in the form of the sultry Lara Stone, who, despite being a buxom blond, possesses the face of an innocent Lolita. The closest thing to grown-up on the runway is a dominatrix, sashaying in leather as seen in Hermès. Then there’s the complete morbidity of Rick Owens and Gareth Pugh. No matter which way you look at it, fashion appears to be going through puberty. It’s taken ten steps back.

Michelle Obama is a cultural step forward being a woman of colour. But she is essentially a traditionalist: her physique is powerful, but she revels in the frills of pretty. And our heroes of today, hard as it is to believe, are girls from the flimsy world of reality TV – it’s no wonder fashion is in such a state.

If fashion is influenced by current events, it’s surely stuck in a rut. There’s a need for that modern-essence that gave it such clear director back in 1984.

Are magazines a dying breed? Never. What about Fashion magazines? Is that even a question? Gen Y is too sophisticated to not read magazines. Gen X is benched between the internet and the ideals of print. And the echelon of taste-makers are too powerful. Fashion magazines are addictive. It’s deeper than the editorial spreads or designer profiles. You’re learning a library of history in the span of an article. To hold a glossy magazine, in your hands, then create a zeitgeist going as far back as 10 years (in my case, I have Vogue from 1984) – that’s a trajectory to the smart stars. When a magazine starts to discolour and pages fall out of the sockets, you hold the power. And if you’ve actually read all of the magazine in your go, even better.

When I started seriously collecting Vogue, I chose the British edition – for obvious reasons. But I had never really read it properly. There was something about it that just went over my head. It was too wordy, to cerebral. So, I went back to my first one – I had a lot of catching up to do – no wait, actually, I started reading back issues of  Flare, Fashion and Elle Canada – Canadian fashion magazines. The Canadian glossies to me were  stepping stones towards my growth to the more coveted titles. Once I got through them, all 50 or so, then I moved on to British Vogue. It was tedious. It was tiring, but I did it. Now, I’m amazed that I can get through British Vogue in one sitting. Well, okay maybe two. But it’s so much more digestible then it was all but a month ago. I’ve even taken to buying all the English-language editions with the exception of Vogue Paris. I’ve also moved on to various editions of Elle and Harper’s Bazaar. See what I mean? To say it’s fulfilling is too easy  a world. It’s more like, emancipation.

OK. magazines don’t necessarily have the depth of books, they’re not supposed to. But now, after reading glossies by the pound, I can read a feature in Vanity Fair and have an opinion on whether the story was shit (like the latest cover on Angelina Jolie). I mean hey, Vanity Fair  – I love you, I really do – is the Crème de la Crème of the mag world, no? Newspapers are now a breeze and I’m curious if books can fill the black whole in the middle of my brain.

Even Justin Bieber’s bright blue,outdated, skinny jeans could take a pass. Miley, I know you country singers like a little bit of cheese. But seriously honey, what were you thinking?

Versace Leather Platform Ankle boots. $875 USD. Available at Net-A-Porter.

This spring 2011 collection is exactly what you would expect from a designer that thinks outside the box.  Congratulations to Korean designer Juun J for killin’ it with the avant-garde. Masculine yet feminine, sexy yet asexual, it’s Gothic, extremely moody yet one hell of a ride. You don’t need to confidence to wear Juun J. Matter-of-fact, it’s perfectly suited to the person who is quite the opposite. It’s for the understated fashion indulgent who makes huge statements through little things. He or she is intimidating at first glance, but you can’t turn away. All you want to know is “Where did you get that, and how do I get it?” You need to love Juun J, because you need something new and refreshing in your closet. The spider-web graphic print leggings and fiery red biker jackets are dangerously enticing, and the utility overcoats are giving a bit of ‘jazz’ with white and royal purple colourways.

Amsterdam design team Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren put a lot of passion into their womenswear wear. And while I consider Viktor & Rolf up there in ranks as fashion designers, I wasn’t that impressed with their spring 2011 collection. As much as they love to push the boundaries in fashion, this collection seems rather safe. Sure the rug trimming on the suits were interesting, as were the mint coloured shoes, but I know they could have raised the bar for their men’s wear just a bit higher. But what I will say, is that the collection is very plush: the tailoring is clean, and the fabrics are silky. They are in a league of their own with what they do, and I understand them not wanting to be too ambitious with menswear, but there’s always ways of playing with ideas while still keeping it within reason. Let us hope that the next collection brings about a bit more inspiration.

Tom Ford is that beautiful man who every joe should aspire to be: sexy, seductive and effortless. You can’t imagine how many women out there gripe at his gayness. But you know, gay or straight, this fashion icon always looks clean, even with a bit of stubble (as seen here). And what’s he wearing? You guessed it, Tom Ford.

Supermodel extraordinaire Natalia Vodianova always radiates. This russian-born princess is a true rags-to-riches story. She’s one of the few catwalkers who has made the successful transition to the fairytale life. Dressed a silk chiffon purple dress with off-white Christian Louboutins, what can you really say about her? And to think that she has two kids.

Sure Mark Ronson has made the best-dressed list of countless men’s magazines. But haven’t you noticed how this awkwardly tall producer pulls off awkwardly tight floods? He’s working that doo-wop style to his advantage.

Ah, Joan Collins, the dynasty queen. She’s the one who made power shoulders and tacky-texan bela beauty a phenomenon. And as you can see, she’s traded in the bouffant for a subtler bob, but she’s still absolutely stunning.

I thoroughly enjoy artist Tracey Emin. She always looks like she’s having fun and she carries off her looks with an immense amount of confidence. In effect her outfits always work.

All I know about Bailey is that she’s a model – of some sort. The Chanel floor-length dress is worth noting. And she’s enviously waif (naturally). Not many can pull off Chanel; either it’s geared towards the haggard and old, or verythin. Preferrably both. Luckly, Bailey falls in the latter category. She did this one well.

“Lady GaGa becomes the first artist in digital history to have three songs top the 4 millions download mark”  Peace FM Online

“Lady Gaga’s proud dad, Joseph Germanotta, phoned Manhattan strip club HeadQuarters and insisted on buying her a $700 magnum of Laurent Perrier champagne when she partied there”  myFOXla.com

“Pop singer Lady Gaga has been slammed by the anti-drugs campaigners after she admitted to her fans that she loves ecstasy.” DNA India

“A Russian billionaire gave the pop singer the huge sum for the chance to star alongside her in the 9-minute promo for ’Alejandro’.”  Post Zambia

“Lady Gaga is not about to join the ranks of celebrity mums – because she’s frightened of babies”  The Press Association

Yes. The world has officially gone gaga for the lady. Whether it be Vogue, Showstudio, countless blogs and the like. You can chew her up, spit her up, oogle her, admire her. I suppose she’s become a voice of rebellion so many people are craving right now. Her trajectory to the top has been unstoppable; she gets more and more absurd with every video, every outfit, and it seems to be quenching a thirst. Well, her she is, your GOD, your saviour. It’s all for you.

I remember trying, passionately, to pitch a story on Parisian-born designer Cédric Charlier. Of course, as you can imagine, my emails went unanswered. When was named the Creative Director for 50-year-old design house Cacharel, was it really that surprising? Now, three collections later, he’s dropped the print-bomb to luminous effect. When I first came across this 2011 resort line, for some reason, I couldn’t help but think Alfred Hitchcock’s 1963 horror The Birds. The intensity of the prints, the vivid colourways, I just can’t help but feel as though it’s the dead of night, and I’m sitting next to a swamp that’s flooded with Viola odoratas and white oleanders, with nothing but the moonlight hovering over me. And as I peer up. Looking ahead, there’s a black flock of crows swarming the moon and coating the sky like death. It’s scary – as hell – but at the same time, in a twisted way, there’s beauty in it all.

The Italian’s love for flash and grandeur seems to have rubbed off on Canadian design-duo Dean and Dan Caten of DSquared2. It’s not a bad thing, because they’re able to add the right amount of sleaze conjuring up sexy collection of euro-glittery pieces that are bright, bold yet very clean. There’s a bit of Americano and uppity oxford-chic that’ll be a big inspiration across the pond. And emerald green shorts! Oh the wonders!

To be a fan of Roberto Cavalli is to love flash, cash and not a lot of dash. This collection bled textures and colours in ways only Cavalli knows how. But it’s always when you take away the ostentation in favour of the simple, elegant slim-fitting white suit, or that loosely draped amethyst sweater that displays Cavalli’s true showmanship. There was a lot of suede and lots and lots of denim. Could it be that fashion is finally going back to basics?

Jean-Paul Gaultier has been taking it to the streets since the start of his career. But you can see the aesthetic in all 59 looks of his spring/summer 2011 collection more than any other time. Here, he’s explosive with the graphic prints and Keffiyeh-like scarves. And he’s taken his collection to the middle east with the Jodhpur pants and oversized pull-over shirts.

At Louis Vuitton, Paul Helbers (the brand’s menswear designer) kept it clean. As per usual. it’s on a completely different route than Marc Jacob’s over-the-top womenswear, but Helbers use of neutral tones are worth noting. The one miss was the translucent button-ups, they were reminiscent of those cheesy, 90s club hoppers women so tried to avoid.