Safra Ducreay

Posts Tagged ‘British Vogue’

Musing: Magazines

In Fashion on July 20, 2010 at 3:28 pm

Are magazines a dying breed? Never. What about Fashion magazines? Is that even a question? Gen Y is too sophisticated to not read magazines. Gen X is benched between the internet and the ideals of print. And the echelon of taste-makers are too powerful. Fashion magazines are addictive. It’s deeper than the editorial spreads or designer profiles. You’re learning a library of history in the span of an article. To hold a glossy magazine, in your hands, then create a zeitgeist going as far back as 10 years (in my case, I have Vogue from 1984) – that’s a trajectory to the smart stars. When a magazine starts to discolour and pages fall out of the sockets, you hold the power. And if you’ve actually read all of the magazine in your go, even better.

When I started seriously collecting Vogue, I chose the British edition – for obvious reasons. But I had never really read it properly. There was something about it that just went over my head. It was too wordy, to cerebral. So, I went back to my first one – I had a lot of catching up to do – no wait, actually, I started reading back issues of  Flare, Fashion and Elle Canada – Canadian fashion magazines. The Canadian glossies to me were  stepping stones towards my growth to the more coveted titles. Once I got through them, all 50 or so, then I moved on to British Vogue. It was tedious. It was tiring, but I did it. Now, I’m amazed that I can get through British Vogue in one sitting. Well, okay maybe two. But it’s so much more digestible then it was all but a month ago. I’ve even taken to buying all the English-language editions with the exception of Vogue Paris. I’ve also moved on to various editions of Elle and Harper’s Bazaar. See what I mean? To say it’s fulfilling is too easy  a world. It’s more like, emancipation.

OK. magazines don’t necessarily have the depth of books, they’re not supposed to. But now, after reading glossies by the pound, I can read a feature in Vanity Fair and have an opinion on whether the story was shit (like the latest cover on Angelina Jolie). I mean hey, Vanity Fair  – I love you, I really do – is the Crème de la Crème of the mag world, no? Newspapers are now a breeze and I’m curious if books can fill the black whole in the middle of my brain.

Fashion Editors suck

In Fashion, Op Ed., Out vs. IN on May 22, 2010 at 3:16 pm

Just kidding. You liked that didn’t you… (wink).

I’ve noticed that fashion magazines – particularly Canadian ones - have a knack for enticing readers into the glamorous world of an Editor’s closet with the phrase “Shop Like a Fashion Editor”. Oh you know, they strut into their quarters head-to-toe in RTW, and scour the country for first-rate finds you don’t have access to because , unfortunately, you are not one of them. Not that there’s anything wrong with that – it’s just cliché, and not true. Fashion Editors, and I say this from experience, are probably the most understated people. Sure, there’s some over-the-top ones, but for the most part,  low-key is what makes the good ones so talented. Besides, this isn’t the 1950s,you’re not deprived; you have access to big cities (if you don’t already live in one), television, public and private transport – the world is virtually yours.

Lets not say fashion editors in general, there’s a difference, but good Market Editors are on point with  trends. And that’s because after dozens of store openings and countless appointments, what makes the pages are considered (in their opinion) the choice of the month. They don’t have access to anything over you – it’s their job. Simple. I read a lot of magazines, and I conclude that the more down-to-earth Editors (shout out to British Vogue) who bring a more “everyday” perspective to fashion , are the most interesting. You don’t need to “shop like a Fashion Editor” because you’re already fabulous. They’re just telling you “here’s what you may have missed,” or “you really need to know about this  because, it’s hot.”

 That’s why there should be a ban on that phrase. Why not something like “Edit”, that’s so much more modern. Living in such a fast-moving world means you, the reader, can easily one-up any fashion editor, but because you’re busy with your own sex in the city life, they’re there to add to your already fantastically wonderful wardrobe.

And yeah I have an issue with Sex and the City too but that’s for another discussion.

In the Know: Hermione de Paula

In Fashion, In the Know, London, News, RTW, designer on December 15, 2009 at 6:13 pm

I have a genuine love for new designers. But as I’m scrutinizing an image of Hermione de Paula, I can’t tell whether her blank stare is because she knows she’s privileged enough to get a break or because she’s jaded by all the bull-crap she’s gone through.

A cute girl with a cute fashion line and a cute little dog to match. This Central St. Martins graduate has got experience to boot; she’s been at Galliano, Giles, Alexander McQueen and Christian Dior Couture. She’s a favorite amongst the “fash” pack at British Vogue online and she’s the recipient of the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Merit Award for autumn/winter 2010/2011. She’s got her first standalone catwalk show this upcoming London Fashion Week and she’s got a spring/summer 2010 collection at Browns Focus.

All the excitement galore means she’s got the stamina, she’s a hardworking mama-jammer, but I’m not quite fond of her s/s 2010 collection. Let’s not hate; her previous collections are great, but this collection seems to be boggled down by flora print, tie-dyes or something. Don’t get me wrong, she’s got some seriously hot pieces in there, and when she keeps her concepts to a minimum it’s bang on. But maybe I’m just not fond of floral prints. But then again, I beg to differ because I’m a fan of Erdem.

One to Watch: Chau Har Lee

In Collection, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, Heels, London, One to Watch, Shoes, art, designer on December 2, 2009 at 6:44 pm

“I aim to create pieces that have strength and beauty, based around a concept which can be about a number of things – the body, the materials or a particular theme.”

– Chau Har Lee to Dazed Digital

I like clothes more than shoes. But when I come across footwear that’s fantastically spellbinding, I’m quick to want.

When it comes to what you wear, there shouldn’t be any borders; clothes, shoes or otherwise. Screw the conservative society! Many of the greatest fashion innovators – with the exception of US Vogue’s Anna Wintour, and Vogue Paris‘s Carine Roitfeld – made their mark in the world by being themselves, no matter how idiosyncratic it seemed. And that’s where London-based cobbler Chau Har Lee fits into my life.

Chau Har Lee is a 29-year-old shoe designer who obtained her long-winded education at UK’s most prestigious: Cordwainer College (London College of Fashion), Royal College of Art and Camberwell College of Art. She’s the recipient of multiple awards including the 2009 Manolo Blahnik prize and International Talent Support competition, she’s been featured in fashion magazines such as British Vogue, Nylon and i-D, and she’s worked with fashion powerhouses Burberry and Nicole Farhi early in her career. A fan for pushing the “shoe envelope,” Ms. Har used  materials such as stainless steel, walnut wood, acrylic and leather to create architectural shoes you could envision completing Maison Martin Margiela’s runway collection.

There’s no word as to when we’ll be able to get our hands on a pair, but she says she’s currently working on her 2010 collection in her East London studio.

One to Watch: Graeme Armour, Paris, France

In Fashion, France, Good Look, One to Watch, designer on November 21, 2009 at 4:51 pm


I came across this designer while browsing through the Kingdom of Style blog, and I did a bit of research. I don’t have to feel so bad, as British Vogue did a write up on the collection in October.

Mr. Graeme Armour is not a newbie, though he kind of is, but sometimes it takes a while before people take notice. When it comes to any designer who I feel is one to watch, again, I must stress that their clothes are a reflection of my personal style. And yes, if I could, I would wear them to death each and every day.

Which leads me to Graeme. His Spring/Summer 2010 collection has all the elements I admire. Come to think of it, maybe I should have coffee with Lady Gaga, I mean, essentially she seems to like a lot of the same designers I do. (I say this because she’s a fan of this one, too).

Catch Armour’s collection at the  On|Off showroom, Galerie Motte & Rouart, 74 Rue Quincampoix, Paris 75003.

Flash Back: Grace Coddington on the Cover of British Vogue August 1962

In Fashion, Flash Back, Icon on November 17, 2009 at 12:22 am


There she is in all her gorgeousness. Grace Coddington gt her start as a fashion model destined to be the next “it girl”. With her sultry eyes and fiery red mane, she graced countless amounts of fashion spreads. But she almost lost her modelling career due a fatal car accident;  luckily, she had reconstructive surgery (her eyelid was sliced off), and was back in full-throttle in the early `60s.

As time would have it, Ms. Coddington wou;d stay in the fashion world, but this time behind the lense. She went on to become British Vogue’s Junior Fashion Editor, then was whisked off to Calvin Klein in America before joining Anna Wintour at US Vogue in 1988. She’s been there ever since.

Fashion Heat: The world has gone GAGA

In Fashion Heat, Good Look, Trend on November 11, 2009 at 4:42 pm

You name it, Lady Gaga has almost done them all. All that’s missing is Vanity Fair, The New Yorker, Time, and National Geographic.

In the Know: Nicole Richie x Winter Kate

In Fashion, In the Know, News, RTW, Vogue, designer on November 6, 2009 at 6:22 pm

Nicole Richie

It’s quite possible that Nicole Richie (daughter of Lionel Richie and former BFF of Paris Hilton) is one of the hardest working women in fashion – and even entertainment, for that matter. In 2009 she launched her House of Harlow 1960 Jewellery collection and in January 2010, the slebrity-obsessed and fashion lovers a like can indulge in her latest branch offs: House of Harlow Footwear and clothing line Winter Kate.

Winter Kate and HHF have already been taken up by British online boutique MY-WARDROBE.com considering that they purchased her Jewellery collection. It has been said that the clothing line will immulate Richie’s closet, consisting of free-flowing maxi dresses, and tunic tops.

Stay tuned for more information…

In the Know: Georgia May Jagger for Versace

In Fashion, In the Know, News on November 6, 2009 at 4:47 pm

Georgia May Jagger

There was once a time when daughters of rock stars (ie., Liv Taylor) were becoming actress. Now, their taking over the fashion scene. 2009 marks the year of Georgia May, daughter of rocker legend Mick Jagger and former supermodel Jerry Hall, as the burgeoning new bread of top of the world. Already becoming the face of Hudson Jeans and Rimmel London, appearing on the cover of British Vogue at just 17, it’s recently been announced that she’s going to be the spokesmodel for Versace. Sir Jagger must be proud.

Good Look – Cheryl Cole

In Fashion, Good Look on November 2, 2009 at 5:06 pm

Cheryl Cole is not known on the northern hemisphere of the planet (at least not enough to have an impact), but in the UK she’s beyond media darling. She’s somewhat of a quasi-God to the slebrity-obsessed and fashion press a like.

She is beautiful, that’s for sure. And her story is relatable. She grew up on the rough side of England on an estate ( over there, the estates are not-so-good). She won a reality TV competition landing a spot in group Girls Aloud (basically, a contemporary, modernized version of Spice Girls). Surprisingly, the group hasn’t crossed over as their predecessors did. But her life is a fairy tale – with a lot of loopholes. She married mega-rich Soccer Pro Ashley Cole (He plays for Chelsea), and over a short course of time her look has gone from chav, to WAG, to a woman all her own. However, she still has a bit of that Chav mentality complementing her history of bar fights and potty mouth square offs with other celebrities. But as they say, you can take the ghetto out the hood, but you can’t take the hood out the ghetto. Regardless of her raucous ways, she’s graced countless magazine covers and has been placed at the top of almost all of UK’s best dressed lists. While I do definitely question all the hype, I have to salute the fact that she made the cover of British Vogue.

I’ve never seen Ms. Cole look as good as she did within those pages. And I don’t think I ever will again. I do believe it’s a good idea for her to revel in her fame while it’s around. Her style counsel is steering her in the right direction; I sure hope that she’ll settle into her look and become a true fashion icon.

Get The Look

The Top – Chale Pussy-Bow Blouse by Diane von Furstenberg. $261 (CAD).

I do prefer a long-sleeve with sequin leggings – especially with sequin leggings. I also prefer if the blouse covers the bum and it doesn’t look like this one does, but chances are you may have a coat on top anyway.

The Pant - Dégradé Sequin Leggings by Stella McCartney. $837.20 (USD).

Apparently they’re sold out. You’ve got to be kidding me. These are the most gorgeous sequin leggings I’ve ever seen. The dégradé effect adds elegance and in a way, it tells you how to wear them. Start light as a top and make sure the shoes are dark – but not brown or black, please.

The Shoe - Taupe Moos pump by Aldo. $90(USD).
The Accessories:

The Broach – I found this Cream Pearl and Crystal Cluster Brooch for $14.99 (USD) by White Aisle.


The bracelet
Silver-tone Swarovski Crystal-Embellished Bracelet by Roberto Cavalli. $1,415 (USD).
The Bag - Lace Detail Bag by Zagliani. 3,565 (GBP). Available at Browns Fashion.

Engage – Moonmilk by Ryan McGinley

In Books, Engage on November 1, 2009 at 5:45 pm

ryan_mcginley_moonmilk_book

Call me a bandwagoner, but i t wasn’t until I read an article in British Vogue on photographer Ryan McGinley  that I became aware of who he was. Mr. McGinley is known for photography consisting of naked baring models running wild with nature. This antic has garnered him much success throughout his career, and his latest work Moonmilk, exhibits young, beautiful models once again naked and undisclosed , but this time they’re inhabiting big, scary caves.

His use of colour is and the fact that the models look like glowing UFOs is quite captivating. And by-no-means is this a raunchy manifestation of sex; nudity has been looked so good.

If you have time you can also catch snippets of Moonmilk on an online gallery called Tiny Vices.

Moonmilk is Available at Amazon.

Fashion Icon – Alexandra Shulman

In Editor, Fashion, Icon, Vogue on October 31, 2009 at 2:50 pm

Alexandra Shulman
Ms. Shulman may be the more underrated of the three on an international level, but I can attest by personal experience that she’s one of the best, and most fierce Fashion Journalists in existence.

Initially wanting to work for a record label but learning quickly she wasn’t cut of for the job, in 1982 she got her break as a Staff Writer for society magazine Tatler. She then moved on to the Sunday Telegraph (also home to Fashion Journalist Hilary Alexander 1987. During the `90s, she was the Editor for men’s magazine GQ then on to her appointment as Editor of British Vogue 1992 and the magazine has flourished ever since.

Even though her regular column in the Daily Mail has been dropped, you can still get access to her exuberant articles in its archive.