Safra Ducreay

Posts Tagged ‘Fashion’

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Musing: Magazines

In Fashion on July 20, 2010 at 3:28 pm

Are magazines a dying breed? Never. What about Fashion magazines? Is that even a question? Gen Y is too sophisticated to not read magazines. Gen X is benched between the internet and the ideals of print. And the echelon of taste-makers are too powerful. Fashion magazines are addictive. It’s deeper than the editorial spreads or designer profiles. You’re learning a library of history in the span of an article. To hold a glossy magazine, in your hands, then create a zeitgeist going as far back as 10 years (in my case, I have Vogue from 1984) – that’s a trajectory to the smart stars. When a magazine starts to discolour and pages fall out of the sockets, you hold the power. And if you’ve actually read all of the magazine in your go, even better.

When I started seriously collecting Vogue, I chose the British edition – for obvious reasons. But I had never really read it properly. There was something about it that just went over my head. It was too wordy, to cerebral. So, I went back to my first one – I had a lot of catching up to do – no wait, actually, I started reading back issues of  Flare, Fashion and Elle Canada – Canadian fashion magazines. The Canadian glossies to me were  stepping stones towards my growth to the more coveted titles. Once I got through them, all 50 or so, then I moved on to British Vogue. It was tedious. It was tiring, but I did it. Now, I’m amazed that I can get through British Vogue in one sitting. Well, okay maybe two. But it’s so much more digestible then it was all but a month ago. I’ve even taken to buying all the English-language editions with the exception of Vogue Paris. I’ve also moved on to various editions of Elle and Harper’s Bazaar. See what I mean? To say it’s fulfilling is too easy  a world. It’s more like, emancipation.

OK. magazines don’t necessarily have the depth of books, they’re not supposed to. But now, after reading glossies by the pound, I can read a feature in Vanity Fair and have an opinion on whether the story was shit (like the latest cover on Angelina Jolie). I mean hey, Vanity Fair  – I love you, I really do – is the Crème de la Crème of the mag world, no? Newspapers are now a breeze and I’m curious if books can fill the black whole in the middle of my brain.

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I Heart Osklen

In Collection, Fabric, Fashion, Good Look, RTW, Trend, Wish List, designer, style on January 21, 2010 at 1:05 am

I’m inspired by Osklen’s seemingly effortless boho grub collections. And take chic out the equation – that’s such a lame adjective.  Admittedly, I’m envious of more fortunate women who have the luxury of sporting the ‘fashion bum’ look without shopping ‘bum’ prices. But until that day comes, the second-hand route has made its way comfortably into my lifestyle, which adds a bit of compromise to how fresh some of my staples appear at times.

The aesthetics behind Osklen is a raggedy-ann concept with a polished finish. You can wear a complete outfit that’s easily mistaken for a thrift-find at first glance, but closer inspection reveals soft leathers, organic cottons and intricate drapes. I would love to wear a $2500 outfit constructed to look like its been lying around in the closet for a couple of years, if not longer. And I’m noticing that Latin Americans seem to be the predecessors of this type of fashion statement.

Who knows, maybe I’m living on the wrong side of the planet. As much as I love high fashion, I’m also a major fan of comfort, and that’s what Osklen has represented since its 1982 inception. “All my work is about duality. I juxtapose symbolic, textural, conceptual, and visual opposites,” creative director Oskar Metsavaht recently told Style.com. Lets not complicate things now,Oskar. Simply put; Osklen is an extremely comfortable  collection of loosely draped cuts  done with meticulious attention to detail.

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My Fashion Life

In Good Look, Op Ed., Recap, Trend, Vogue on December 30, 2009 at 9:29 pm

Before

When I lived in the UK for the earlier part of 2009, I wandered London’s congested streets wearing colourful sneakers, stonewash jeans and multiple gold cuban link chains. Upon my return to Toronto, I adapted a punk-influenced look consisting of Trilby hats and leather biker jackets - possibly due to my new-found worldliness. But skirts and heels slowly creeped back into my primary list, mainly because I returned to my conform zone. Before I’d left Toronto, I could throughout the city for miles on end wearing the sexiest heels.

When I landed a job, I was the fashion-forward girl in an office of three; influencing my colleagues to jazz it up a bit more frequently. From beginning to  end, I maintained a solid reputation as the young woman who basked in looking good and would surely cultivate a flourishing fashion career. When my contract ended, I still had desire. But then, I got a job as a part-time Sales Associate for a British retail luxury chain.

At first I thought I’d enjoy this experience. I thought this move would help me to dig deeper into my cravings for fashion. But the uniform, my colleagues, and my managers slowly outed my flame. My need to care was replaced with my need for an out. I started to feel stifled by my surroundings; I preferred the solitude of a computer and words rather than having to “try” for another day on the sales floor. Every day was a was like of war, and the more I wished I could camouflage into the four walls. The nonchalant attitude dipped in my ability to smile, to care. Consequently, your appearance can affect your performance, which can lead to loss of a job. They say fake it till you make it, and it’s true. I remember a time when I had broken up with an old boyfriend. I started to dress a bit more for work; not only did my confidence boost, I got over him quite quickly.

The last time I struggled with a job under the similar circumstances with the store was while living in England. It was for a British company, and I had to wear a uniform. However, I don’t think it was the uniform anymore than it was the people I reported to. A toxic attitude can contain a multitude of things; whether it’s your surroundings, confidence and level happiness at that time.

During

My clairvoyance taped into my conscience; I dreamt about the end of my part-time retail job, something that tends to happen when I know the door will close, and weeks before, my ambitions started to shift to the things I wanted to do. There was no point in trying to salvage it, I knew it was over, it was just a matter of when. But I consider that loss to be a blessing. Because terminating a burdensome working relationship is ending a bad romance. The minute it was over, I regained my confidence. I started to feel my heart mould into a smile, and the part of me that drifted away started to come back.

NOW!

 

For months, I only had this blog as an outlet; it turned that fashion maven loose. Her and I split into two parts; she illuminated, gorgeous and captivating on the blog, while I hid behind her, quiet and patient. But now the year is over, we’ll become one in the same again. The new years is positive; I’ve laid out the groundwork, and I’ve got to enter it with a BANG!

 

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Then and Now: When Fashion Was Cool

In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Flash Back, Good Look, London, Trend, culture, designer on November 25, 2009 at 9:18 pm

British Vogue‘s December issue brought on a strong sense of nostalgia for me. A specific article, The Secret History of London Fashion Week, chronicled LFW from the `80s to present. After reading the piece, an abundance of emotions got my creative juices flowing, and a whirlwind of images fled through my mind. Truth be told, I had not really known LFW until recently but I remember the iridescence that fashion had as a whole. In the article, a series of designers, supermodels and buyers went into detail about the many tribulations the show endured over the years. But the focal points – Lynne Franks, a major PR Director and Stevie Smith – the mastermind behind collection Body Map, were the most inspiring. It was they who- with the exception of Vivienne Westwood and her line – were trailblazers for what London fashion was to become.

“Our LFW debut was called Cat in the Hat Takes a Tumble With the Rumblefish,” mused Smith. “We created a way of dressing using jerseys and sweatshirts that wasn’t just for skinny people, we had old, young, fat and thin on the catwalk. Even my mum.” His vision was beyond making pretty clothes and being conventional. Body Map was a breakaway from the norm other Fashion Designers were concurring with at the time. Even Franks’s concept was avant-garde “I persuaded one my clients to sponsor a tent [in Olympia] and up it went. The lawn collapsed after a few seasons and we had to move, but this marked the start of a new mood in fashion – it was fun and funky and young.”

Though it’s not quite as prestigious as fashion week in Milan or Paris, London Fashion Week is still the best place to showcase collections of both old and young. Matter of fact, London is ahead of all fashion corners for cultivating fashion design.  But the `80s and early `90s were a pivotal moment in fashion, as most designers of today who are creatively schizophrenic draw inspiration from fashion of that time. And not just London, during the `80s fashion on a global scale became so baroque that the concept of colours and shapes held no barriers. The more abstract your dressing, the better. This was a philosophy that resonated with the fashion elite, rock stars and the hip-hop scene.

Body Map is a proven testament of playing with design concepts waywardly, and boldly. There’s fierce determination to make a statement in the collections. A great prime example of this is this piece worn by Uma Thurman:

and this punk-inspired pink, green and blue outfit:

As we move into modern times, Body Map’s concept was applied rather unconsciously by Toronto-based fashion designer Blaine Degannes of Rain Anthology:

Considering Dagannes had no background in fashion, I reckon his fashion history was extremely limited. Maybe if he did more research, it would have been easier for him to connect the dots. A reviewer of Toronto Fashion Week (where Dagannes debuted) stated his line Caribbean influenced, I’m not sure if that’s a bad thing, but it’s good when a fashion designer is influenced (much like Stevie Smith) but their upbringings. Degannes has the right idea, just not at the right level.

I do feel sorry for the pioneers who scavenge for talent now, the problem with a lot of fashion designers (much like aspiring fashion journalists) is that they’re too consumed with being something they’re not. They’re either overly processed and pretentious or stiff and dull. But all isn’t lost.

Russian designer Alexander Terexov takes the same concept and adds a resort feel to his Spring/Summer 2010 collection.

It’s safer, and glossier. But it doesn’t stand out. It’s a collection constructed for fashion-conscious pretty girls who like pretty things.

However, my when eyes trail to UK-based Ziad Ghanem‘s spring/summer 2010 collection and it gives me hope. Not just because I like punk, but because his collection is a sign of the times. With the state of the economy, we’re looking for inspiration and he gives us that by taking the Body Map concept and revitalizing it:

Very British, very fun. That’s the word! Fashion was supposed to be fun. It’s okay if historic elements are prevalent. But while art and fashion are merged together, you’re supposed to enjoy wearing the garments.

Another favorite of mine is Berlin-fashion line C.Neeon who know how to the colour and print concept seamlessly.

Bare in mind they’ve been around for a long time, but the vision was there from the beginning, that’s why they’ve come this far.

Admittedly, I have a lifetime of fashion purgatory ahead. Before allowing my inner fashion feline to emerge, I held on to what I thought I knew: Balenciaga, Yves Saint Laurent and Balmain. I liked what I thought I liked, and that was what I knew, but thanks to discovering Body Map, the eccentric world of British fashion has given me a new outlook. Not just for what to wear, but for my fashion life in general.

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In The Know: Because Magazine

In Fashion, In the Know on November 25, 2009 at 4:50 pm

Tank/O Guru Caroline Issa and her team love fashion. So much so, they created Because, an online magazine on their musings. But it’s not your run-of-the-mill, cut-and-paste source. It’s more like a buyer’s guide to what’s hot in fashion, accessories, shoes and all things related that allows you to click-to-buy directly to the item’s retailer. Each entry is composed of fashion shoots, video uploads and commentary giving the magazine an exclusive angle.  The Because team are a specialized group of fashion industry leaders; it’s their unrelenting job to know what’s hot. Because they said so, you should trust them.

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One to Watch: Derek Lawlor

In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, London, One to Watch, designer on November 24, 2009 at 4:43 am


No, the UK fashion designer Derek Lawlor really is that good.

You see, I understand because I’m from Canada and my blog is fairly new, I have a lot of catching up to do compared to my overseas counterbloggers with hot, new fashion designers, but I’m quickly catching up.

Derek Lawlor has taken the knitwear concept to his own little planet. It’s a fabulous line. It’s complex, armour inspired, and contemporary.

Mr. Lawlor graduated with an MA in knitwear from Central Saint Martins in March 2009, and as you can see, his education has done him fair justice.

Derek Lawlor’s collection is via online e-tailer couturelab.com, but the price is steep (easily retailing between $2,000 to $5,000+), but it is worth? Well, if I could I most definitely would.

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Leona lewis x Stella McCartney?

In Fashion, In the Know, culture, music on November 23, 2009 at 9:58 pm

If singers aren’t bandwagoning on the fashion design line enough, now British-singer Leona Lewis is talking about starting her own collection. “There’s so much I want to do. I’ve always wanted to have my own fashion line, and that’s something I want to focus on next year,” Ms. Lewis apparently told a friend. And it looks like dreams really do come true. She’s in talks with the anti-fur design legend Stella McCartney about a collaboration for 2010.

“I’m on a mission. I’d love to promote a line of non-leather bags and shoes that are affordable.” Well, at least she’s clarified. She’d love to promote, not design or create. So, that leaves Ms. McCartney doing all the labour with Ms. Lewis sitting pretty musing about what her inspiration behind the line.

Both women are vegetarian and against completely against wearing animals; on paper it sounds like a match made in heaven. But Ms. Lewis, though cute in the face, does not strike anyone as a fashion maven, which leaves me to question: genuine, or marketing engine?

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Fashion Heat: Charles Guislan

In Fashion, Fashion Heat, France, Good Look, designer on November 21, 2009 at 1:47 am

(Image courtesy of Vanessa Jackman)

This is what you call a fashion muse. The young, burgeoning fashion designer is the future of fashion, a 16 year-old whose existence is impeccable.

Now, I’ve come across a lot of fashion bloggers, muses that are raved as something big, but there’s something in this boy’s eyes that are just screaming at me. I look forward to sitting with him at a fashion week one of these days.

He’s the one.

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In The Know: Handbag’s 2009 Online Fashion Awards

In Fashion, In the Know, culture on November 21, 2009 at 12:52 am



So this cute little magazine UK website called Handbag.com is having their first ever 2009 Online Fashion Awards. The panel consists of many online fashion authorities including Handbag Fashion Director Belinda White, Courtney Blackman (Fashion Business club), Laura Street (Fab Sugar), and Leon Bailey-Green (The Online Fashion Agency).

Fashion Blog nominees are as follows:

Susie StyleBubble (of course)

Fashionologie

Mademoiselle Robot

Knight Cat

Disney Roller Girl

Park & Cube

I must say though, I understand they may be patriotic in wanting to keep it British, but they could have put beloved Bryanboy and Tommy Ton on there, but I digress.

You can also vote for online e-tailers, your favorite fashion brands and more. Vote for your chance to win 250 (GBP).

Just so you know, you’ll be voting for me next year.

For more info, visit: Handbag.com.

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Fashion Heat: Doll Boutique, London, UK

In Fashion, Shopping on November 20, 2009 at 9:57 pm


The latest online fashion dwelling I came across: Doll Boutique.

The Scotland-based fashionista’s heaven carries it all: bags, shoes, and cosmetics. There are loads of great, affordable designer brands including American Retro, the super hot LNA (see their Ripped Olivia Leggings), low-rise jeans from JBrand, coats by Rizal and so, so much more. However, the biggest must have on the site is the mink Karl Lagerfeld i-Phone holder. Hot damn! Get it while it’s still available.

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One to Watch: Ashish, London, UK

In Fashion, London, One to Watch, designer on November 20, 2009 at 5:30 pm

It’s no wonder so many of the fashion obsessed always tend to look abroad for inspiration. Whether it’s the magazines, music and most importantly – the fashion, it just seems like the nation overseas – particularly the British – are just never afraid to push the envelope and venture into territories that are daring, and intrepid.

When I look at designers like Ashish it’s like a breath of fresh air to me. He has been on the scene since 2001 and you can cop some pieces at Net-A-Porter and Browns Focus. But I do find his reach a bit narrow. I would love to get him over here in Toronto, but maybe it’s all about that humongous break.

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One to Watch: Rad Hourani

In Fashion, One to Watch, designer on November 19, 2009 at 4:55 pm


Fashion authorities love cultivating the success of burgeoning designers. And we do it because quite frankly, it’s our job. Isabella Blow did it with Alexander McQueen, Diana Vreeland did so for Gabrielle Chanel and the list goings on. For me personally, I have three designers I would wear everyday if I could: Balenciaga, Gareth Pugh and Meadham Kirchhoff. So when I saw NYC-based designer Rad Hourani‘s collection, I was instantly smitten.

His line is for those that love minimalism. The sharp architectural edges, monochromatic palette of blacks, silver and greys and bondage elements are bold, yet very clean – it serves its purpose. I love the fringe embellishments, and while I wouldn’t wear a whole look, I can still make a statement with separates which is what I like (actually, what I prefer). I’m not a maven. I don’t like to wear a designer because it’s a designer, and I stress that for me, it’s more about the art of fashion. That’s why I love the aforementioned designers. I’m also highly influenced by the punk era of the early `70s, and I love the industrial goth look; which is why I like designers who create collections with a dark, edgy reference.

Ultimately, of course the line plays with the ideas of pretentiousness but it’s fun. And the fact that he’s self-taught means he has a natural flare for constructing garments for the human silhouette.

Rad Hourani is a hot one.

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Good Look: Fashion blogger call out on FT

In Fashion, Good Look, Icon on November 16, 2009 at 11:01 pm


Wow, who would’ve thought?

There was a time when it was blasphemy for fashion blogs and print magazines to be in the same room together. Now, the Fashion Blogger has become the dominant voice in the industry, with invites and mentions in the world’s most prestigious press outlets. The most recent blogger to make the headlines is the Philippines-based Bryanboy, in a Financial Times article respectively titled: “Style bloggers take centre stage” by Deputy Fashion Editor Nicola Copping.  In the headlining image  is Bryanboy sitting next to the world’s most renowned fashion voices (those include Anna Wintour and IHT’s Suzy Menkes).

Bryan Boy’s personality is quite reflective on his blog; he’s a very sweat guy. I wish him so much success as he has become one of the most influential style voices out there.

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American Apparel OUT x LnA Clothing IN!

In Fashion, Out vs. IN, Shopping, Trend on November 9, 2009 at 4:33 pm

 


Sure, there was a time when American Apparel really was the hottest brand – even to me. But as a fashion scavenger it’s important to understand why something is hot, and why it deserves accreditation. AA was a brand that was cool to wear, now it’s simply a brand that will always have those token pieces you can’t do without: that charcoal men’s cardigan, the red hoodie, and most importantly – black leggings. But the brand is loosing its lustre for the fashionably conscious moving into the world of high school innocence. And that’s fine, let the kids have it because there’s a much cooler brand in town.

Okay, so the hot tees-and-hoodies brand LnA Clothing has more than a few things in common with AA (the main thing being they’re both LA-based brands). But what sets LnA apart is that for one, it’s made by girls. In 1997, Lauren Alexander and April Leight started LnA with the intention of just basic tees. Another refreshing element is that the clothes are the rockstars that sell themselves, not underage models or the maker behind the madness (hint: AA owner Dov Charney and his constant in-your-face tactics)

I do notice LnA has been getting quite a bit of press in UK glossies. If the Brits say it’s hot they must be, you know.

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Fitted Cap OUT, Messenger boy hat IN!

In Fashion, Good Look, Shopping, Trend on November 9, 2009 at 3:56 pm

Colourful, ostentatious, fitted caps are out, Out, OUT! Forget it! Once upon a time it was cool to wear them, and I’m sure there’s a younger generation of kids that have them bolstered on their walls, shelves and windows. But if you’re still trying to pull that skater/ hip-hopper/emo look past the age of 18 then there’s something wrong, terribly wrong. And even if, when the world was confused they had a moment but, things are falling into place, and so is fashion.

Tweed messenger caps are in. You can dress them up however you like, and they’ve got flavour for the fashion papillae. Never mind the sleek sophistication, they just look better. Burberry, has a lovely Herringbone Tweed Cap (pictured) for 175 (GBP).

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Why don’t you wear your art…

In Fashion, Trend, why don't you on November 8, 2009 at 1:47 am

on your dress? Never mind buying paintings strictly for your wall.  ’Dress’ up your dress with influences of cubism, or the ambiguity of abstract art or the fashion-forwardness of art deco. Leave the LBD (little black dress) in the closet, and forget about the little bright red, yellow or pink number. It’s time to add some intelligible appeal to your look. When you walk into a room, relish in the coos of oohs and awes your look will inspire. Designers like Vivienne Westwood, Ohne Titel and Alexander McQueen were the leaders in dress art for spring/summer 2010. Other than the art itself, there was nothing complicated about the collections, nor were they uber-androgynous or aggressive. They were clean-cut with an embellishment good enough to good at – but then again, that was the point.

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Why don’t you wear dots…

In Fashion, Trend, why don't you on November 8, 2009 at 1:11 am

and lots of it. Don’t be afraid of them – that’s what they’re there for. The three-dimensional protrusion constructed into dress is playful and daring. The `80s is dying out, but the early `90s is coming back to the forefront. It was a time when we were bold, we were not afraid to wear blue leggings with green shoes, and lots of dots. In the hair, on the lips and most definitely on the clothes. If you are heavier set, rather than a whole ensemble opt for a loosely draped cut blouse. Or offset your look with some polk-a-dot shoes or a bag.  But don’t be afraid of it. Polka dots are not fashion faux pas, in fact, it’s quite the opposite. It’s embellishment that can’t go wrong because it’s not what you wear, it’s how you wear it. And even it’s it is… so what? Making a statement doesn’t have to be something other people agree with.Danielle Scutt, Comme des Garçons and Azzaro revel in adding a touch of ‘daring’  that makes them so appealing.

So go ahead… why don’t you?

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Splurge: Preen

In Engage, Fashion, RTW, designer, splurge on November 6, 2009 at 10:21 pm

Fashion design couple Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi’s line Preen has been on my mind for quite some time. In 2009, Preen proposed a more traditional fashion-girl but 2010 marks the turn of a recession. Preen has pushed this once light-hearted girl into darker, more demanding territories. The androgynous emphasis of Preen’s line incorporated with the `90s power-suit wearing woman means the designers have noticed a trend: women are fierce and taking charge. The line has empowered women, and whether they choose to wear free-slowing silks, show skin, or wear sluggish trousers, the new Preen woman dived head first in deep end of the sea - and she has conquered it like a true warrior.

Available at Browns Fashion and Net-A-Porter.

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Engage: Prada

In Uncategorized on November 6, 2009 at 9:31 pm

Prada

If you love Prada, you’re a fan of the its cinematic fashion statements and tenure as a leading luxury brand. Now, imagine being able to relish in 706 pages of Prada’s career in fashion, art, architecture and much more.

This is the chance. CEO Patrizio Bertelli and Ms. Miuccia Prada herself are releasing the book that has captured 30 years of Prada’s career in the spotlight. The book costs 100 (Euros), and will be available at select bookstores and via Prada‘s website.

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In the Know: Nicole Richie x Winter Kate

In Fashion, In the Know, News, RTW, Vogue, designer on November 6, 2009 at 6:22 pm

Nicole Richie

It’s quite possible that Nicole Richie (daughter of Lionel Richie and former BFF of Paris Hilton) is one of the hardest working women in fashion – and even entertainment, for that matter. In 2009 she launched her House of Harlow 1960 Jewellery collection and in January 2010, the slebrity-obsessed and fashion lovers a like can indulge in her latest branch offs: House of Harlow Footwear and clothing line Winter Kate.

Winter Kate and HHF have already been taken up by British online boutique MY-WARDROBE.com considering that they purchased her Jewellery collection. It has been said that the clothing line will immulate Richie’s closet, consisting of free-flowing maxi dresses, and tunic tops.

Stay tuned for more information…

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Engage – Fashion Makers Fashion Shapers

In Engage on November 1, 2009 at 5:59 pm

Fashion.makers.cover
The title practically says it all.

Another fashion must-have by Anne-Celine Jaeger.

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Fashion Icon – Suzy Menkes

In Editor, Fashion, Icon on October 31, 2009 at 3:07 pm

Suzy MenkesMs. Pompadour (as this is her signature hairstyle) is a Paris-based Fashion Reporter known for her work (and I mean work) with the   International Herald Tribune she’s been writing for the paper since 1988.

Besides writing for the IHT,  she’s also written five books including one on Fashion Designer Hussein Chalayan.

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Affordable

In Fashion, Shopping, winter on October 30, 2009 at 5:33 pm

With these particular coats, while they’re a steal to the average luxury shopper, they’re a bit of a stretch on the cheque book for the rest of us, but they’re worth the investment if you’d like to keep them in your closet for longer than the current season. I’d like to think that these are not too dated; they’re more like timeless pieces that look fab, have a bit of edge and are made by some recognized fashion brand.

It’s good to mix and match your wardrobe. The key is to make sure that if you’re going to break the bank, make sure that the winter coat has all the proper commodities (can you wear it for at least two to three years?).

Have a look.

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Splurge

In Boots, Fashion, Heels, Shopping, designer, splurge on October 29, 2009 at 11:06 pm

Let’s face it – we all love to splurge. Every once in a while, we become fixated on the latest fashion “must-have” of the season. All we can think about is how wonderful it would be to own that luxury item far beyond our means. Even if it has no purpose in our lives what-so-ever, we’d love to feel like a lottery ticket even if only for 24 hours.

Well, go ahead and indulge.