Safra Ducreay

Posts Tagged ‘London Fashion Week’

LFW 2010: Meadham Kirchhoff

In Collection, London, RTW, UK, designer, dress on March 1, 2010 at 2:25 am

I’ve been inexcusably absent from my blog. I can’t pinpoint the exact reason, not like I’ve been on vacation or anything. Could be a bout of searching… for inspiration. But I knew I had to get back on this so here I am.

I was in Toronto during London’s inspiring fashion week mash-up, but unless it pertained to my favorites, quite frankly, it didn’t really matter. But there was something missing this year, I’m not sure what designers are going through, but the animation they wove into their previous collections are missing.

I was shocked with the design-duo Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff. It’s not that the collection was bad, but it reminded me of Matthew Williamson‘s worldly concepts. It’s not a bad thing, not at all. They’ve still got the gothic edge, but this time it’s incorporated with florals and I just don’t feel this was their best. Then again, maybe that’s okay because we all have bad days.

The thing with this collection is it’s a fall back. When Erdem, and Matthew Williamson does florals and feminine drapes there’s an undeniable fierceness to it. And it’s disappointing because I know Meadham Kirchoff can do so much better.

I hope my guys bring it back next time around, though. You know what I mean.

One to Watch: Alexandra Groover

In Fashion on January 27, 2010 at 8:17 pm

UK-based Alexandra Groover’s spring/summer 2010 collection reminds me of those indie east-side fashion boutiques. You know, at first glance, the pieces are a bit intimidating, but when pulled off the hanger, they’re fresh, and brutally original.

It’s always nice to break away from the norm with these for-the-people collections, but their authenticity and made to order strategy mean they’re not for-the-people prices.

The California native got her papers from Central St. Martins and Rhode Island School of Design before working under Alexander McQueen and the infamous Zandra Rhodes. Her line, seperated in two – grey and black labels– and is available to order via her online boutique and farfetch.com. Her s/s 2010 collection also made its début at London Fashion Week and she’s been noted as one to watch by Vauxhall Fashion Scout.

Ms. Groover’s got some great representation (Blow handles her pr), but it looks like a lot of the clout she has obtained due to her own hard work. Her line suits UK’s ambiance and to call her line architectural is a bit passé; it’s gothic, new-age yet mysteriously sexy. Ms. Groover’s all-black concept of ruffled shoulders and tapered pants compliment the tastes of fashionista who can gloss it up with neatly coiffed hair and lips kissed in M-A-C’s “Girl About Town” fuchsia shade.

One to Watch: Louise Amstrup

In Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, One to Watch, designer on December 18, 2009 at 1:08 am

Louise Amstrup’s a lucky gal. Since debuting her collection at London Fashion Week in 2006, fashion press has been on her jock as a bee is to honey. She’s sucked them in with her ornate collections, and things are about to get better, thanks to a nomination for the Max Factor and Copenhagen Fashion Week New Talent Award.

The Danish fashion designer sharpened her couturier skills under Alexander McQueen, Jonathan Saunders and Sofia Kokosalaki producing a collection inspired by sharp edges, solid grey/black colour palettes and geometric shapes. Her spring/summer 2010 collection incorporated mesh, draping and sci-fi shoulder blades, a trend we’ll be seeing a lot of in the upcoming year.

In the Know: Hermione de Paula

In Fashion, In the Know, London, News, RTW, designer on December 15, 2009 at 6:13 pm

I have a genuine love for new designers. But as I’m scrutinizing an image of Hermione de Paula, I can’t tell whether her blank stare is because she knows she’s privileged enough to get a break or because she’s jaded by all the bull-crap she’s gone through.

A cute girl with a cute fashion line and a cute little dog to match. This Central St. Martins graduate has got experience to boot; she’s been at Galliano, Giles, Alexander McQueen and Christian Dior Couture. She’s a favorite amongst the “fash” pack at British Vogue online and she’s the recipient of the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Merit Award for autumn/winter 2010/2011. She’s got her first standalone catwalk show this upcoming London Fashion Week and she’s got a spring/summer 2010 collection at Browns Focus.

All the excitement galore means she’s got the stamina, she’s a hardworking mama-jammer, but I’m not quite fond of her s/s 2010 collection. Let’s not hate; her previous collections are great, but this collection seems to be boggled down by flora print, tie-dyes or something. Don’t get me wrong, she’s got some seriously hot pieces in there, and when she keeps her concepts to a minimum it’s bang on. But maybe I’m just not fond of floral prints. But then again, I beg to differ because I’m a fan of Erdem.

One to Watch: Bryce Aime

In Collection, Fashion, Fashion Heat, France, Good Look, London, News, designer on December 15, 2009 at 5:27 pm

If you join the UK’s exclusive Fashion Business Club, you’re destined to go very far places. Or , on second thought, maybe it’s if you graduate from Central St. Martins. That’s probably because you’ll have the prestige and support to “rule the world” as they say.

In 1998, Bryce Aime was a young unknown who moved to London from France, now he’s a well-respected fashion designer with his own boutique located in London’s it spot – Chelsea’s Walton Street.
Aime who has a passion for architecture, philosophy and art, amalgamated all these elements into a fashion line that launched at London Fashion Week in 2006. The collection, which draws inspiration from sci-fi aesthetics, is an influx of geometric shapes and monochrome color palettes – ideal for making an entrance into the fashion world.

The self-titled boutique was designed with help of Daryll Amos of award-winning interior design boutique Bentheim with a clean minimalist concept and a cosy, intimate feel. Bryce told Drapers there are plans for expansion in the upcoming year. Well, if you’ve got the resources you should definitely capitalize.